What pushes people in travel? A riddle of riddles for me.
This any irrational desire to receive intangible emotions for quite even tangible money. And if earlier we considered, that more or less long departures are worthy only foreign miracles, now I can declare with full confidence what to spend money in Ukraine (and accordingly and to find miracles) not less fascinatingly.
Acknowledgement to that our May trip across Crimea, taken place together with our friends Igor and Ksjushej. Considering, by the way, this fact, I will not rest against a historical part of the description because Igor for certain will approach to this aspect with the academic scrupulousness. I will afford free retelling of events and impressions.
Question "that we will do on the May?" Has arisen in March. It would be desirable that the trip was sated, but budgetary. Variants were considered: Poland, the Gold ring of Russia (Igor offered so it is possible to expect shortly), Ukraine. Anybody did not have surpluses of time for study of a serious route therefore have stopped on more or less free route across Crimea offered by Igor. Right at the beginning our routes raznilis therefore we have decided to call in in Askaniju Novu and more somewhere, that would will meet with Tychinami on entrance to Crimea.
As a result our route has developed the following:
1 day. Kiev – Askanija It is new
2 day. Askanija It is new – Kherson (dinner) – Genichesk
3 day. Genichesk – Melitopol (the Stone tomb) – Simferopol – Bakhchisarai – Sevastopol
4 day. Sevastopol – Balaklava – Mangup-Kale – Eski-Kermen – Bakhchisarai
5 Day. Bakhchisarai – Chufut-Kale – the Marble cave – Alushta
6 day. Alushta – Falls Dzhur-Dzhur – the Tower of brothers – New Light – the Pike perch – Feodosiya
7 day. Feodosiya – Kerch – Nikolaev
8 day. Nikolaev – Kiev
From all listed to reserve it was necessary only Askaniju Novu. I will be run on our hotels what then not to stop (this section it is possible to pass not interested).
Hotel "Канна" in Askanii Nove – number has managed in 240 grn. Without a breakfast. The breakfast cost separate money, but I do not know what therefore as it needed to be reserved since evening, and we did not know it. It was the biggest number from visited by us for a trip, the truth there was no declared hot water, but it as it has then appeared – a typical problem for, as a rule, there is a general boiler and he simply has not time to heat up water for all comers. Therefore I recommend to search for numbers with a boiler in number.
Hotel as a whole – on 3 with a star minus, despite fresh reorganisation (we have got practically to the first season) and presence in refrigerator and TV numbers. The unaided sight visible, that at reorganisation saved on all: the handle in doors is pulled already out with screws (a door from dvp, it is similar), the Soviet ladders are painted simply over by a paint. Besides, not to repeat, I will tell, that with the similar all hotels (with rare exception) sin – like all is, but somehow it is unreliable, whether that.
But in this hotel there is the most decent institution of type "restoratsija". The prices to a wave moderated (hot dishes – nearby 25 grn., salads from 5 to 15 grn., beer – something about the five) the Dinner on, consider, a three (children it is more on juice prohodilis) has managed in 100 grn. A supper - in 60 grn.
Further there was hotel "Orchid" in Genicheske. It it is possible to name a luxury oasis in beduinskoj to desert. Imagine the rural shabby small houses along street, and then, bats! - manor of the barin. A kind from windows corresponding - not lordly, tobish. But as a whole gostinichka it was pleasant to me. It is especially charming a lobby-bar. Some shod tables and a wattled corner from two armchairs and a small sofa with a little table have to rest after road. Kitchen would name best of probovannogo for this time at hotels (a dinner on a four – 160 grn.) . The truth an abundance of spices so me liked, could be connected that water in Genicheske has very strongly pronounced smell of hydrogen sulphide because of affinity of Sivash which, actually, is translated as the Rotten sea. Because of this specificity we have not estimated a boiler in number, and children have learnt to hold the breath for the period of visiting of a toilet and washing of hands, how much we it did not tell about advantage of mud baths and an other crap. Actually number to us has managed in 180+25 % for the third place for the child, it has turned out 250 grn. With three breakfasts. On Genichesku all. Sevastopol, hotel "Yard". To hotel of years fifteen and once it was abrupt unreasonably. Now the normal. Only to find it on darkness it was difficult: any court yard called in. For a double room with a sofa we have left 313 grn. From which 10 is a parking. Number clean, but smoked. Hotel big enough, and poveselila offered for 440 grn three-room number on 8 places that would be rather budgetary for the big family (it is possible Swedish). Restaurant on troechku, besides there was no alcohol, the truth, at once have resolved «with the». A supper «with the» - 120 grn for two and a half.
Besides Yard we still were interested in conditions of hotel accommodation "Ukraine". The prices there have not inspired us never – from 340 for typical Soviet number with the enameled shower, to 1200 for presidential apartments. Saw there many Poles. Likely presidents.
After Sevastopol we have returned to Bakhchisarai. Have returned therefore as under the initial plan should spend the night there, but have been disappointed by conditions and have followed to council of local residents to go to Sevastopol and there to choose from weight of cheap and good hotels. After wanderings across Sevastopol and loss of hopes to find not that that cheap, and simply comprehensible, hotel "Halt" at the second sight did not seem such madness (300 grn for a half-cottage in territory with pjanomaloletskoj a disco and type snack bars "razlivajka" first seemed us something out of the common). There was a variant to lodge in the case for 250 grn, but there the general boiler and we were not led on promises, that hot water will be. And in a cottage there was a separate water heater and a fireplace. But! For a fireplace there was no fire wood, and in a shower of heating (gas konvektor was in a room). From pluses – an inexpensive taxi to the nearest decent restaurant on a line.
The following stop was in Alushte. Here, perhaps, I have felt for the first time, that problems with habitation will not be. Hotel on hotel, for all tastes and a prosperity. On a course came in svezhepostroennuju gostinichku "Flamingo" with a two-room junior suite for 220 grn and a double for 120 grn. (I will find cut-away – I will write co-ordinates). But the junior suite was free only, therefore we have driven still metres hundred and have miraculously lodged in hotel "Moscow" for 240 griven with breakfasts (and on all four as a pleasant surprise). At the hotel which are near to quay, quite big and cosy court yard on which have managed to construct a stream with small houses over it. It should be very good in the summer. The pool and a sauna (on which it is banal have not sufficed either time, or forces) has still pleased. In general, the hotel passes a test.
One more test hotel waited for us in Feodosiya – the Mango/kivi complex (co-ordinates we search here). The big territory, sound construction cases, spacious numbers, is cafe, number – 200 grn with two breakfasts. From unusual – children managed number with an exit on the general balcony (that in itself well), but at a window there were no dense curtains (that, it is unconditional, juicy). We managed unusually big cockroach, centimetres of five. As I have killed him, so to you him to meet does not threaten.
In Feodosiya other hotels have been visited also, but all had lacks incompatible with us. Though it is necessary to note Helena which has not approached only in the absence of a parking.
Well and, at last, Nikolaev. Generally forces left us on entrances to Kherson, but having rung out the Kherson hotels and having been taken aback from the prices «from 350» we have made strong-willed decision to hold on to Nikolaev and to lodge in the hotel reserved by phone «On Admiral Makarova» for 240 griven in type two-room number. It were the most "Spartan" conditions of residing, it is good though hot water was.
On it hotels, thanks God, it is finished. We pass to a lyrical part of our program.
Travel without the accurate plan has at least one conclusive advantage – you are not threatened with disappointment from destruction of your plans. Preliminary adjust on reception only positive emotions – in general it is obligatory. We were pleased with all: roads, rapsovye fields, the mosquitoes breaking about glass with noise of a rain; the followed then present rain, washing off the mosquitoes-imitators which have given the lives for the sake of several seconds of our bewilderment; people, small towns (generally pleased that we there do not live), hotels, speed, shops, restaurants, clouds, quays, the sea, mountains, the nature, difficulties, ruins, tourists, dogs, bends of road, a new building and other, other, other … it seems To me, I have understood, that bikers who do not hurry anywhere feel – which simply go. The consciousness is cleared and starts to absorb the validity as a certain god-send, in the future spent for our sincere pressure. The nirvana is represented road without a final stop, and it is difficult to force to understand itself a little, that there is no need to hurry, that nobody forbids to stop what simply to look round or listen to ringing air. Movement and the Stop become both the purpose and means, cause and effect each other.
The first stage to Askanii has occupied from me no more forces, than reading of pair the previous paragraphs. The settlement pleased uhozhennostju and any mysterious atmosphere: on the one hand – silence and a pacification, with another – drunk small groups of youth and blood traces in cafe for the morning. But naprjagov has not arisen, likely squealing and rushing about children frightened off the unpredictability.
That I could find all about Askaniju was reduced to concept «biospheric reserve» and a site of protogenic steppe. It is strange, that has got so not enough information on this really unique corner. It has been based by the son of magnate-cattleman Fridrihom Eduardovichem the Fold-fejnom when he was 20 years old. The estate has been named by the previous owner by analogy to an estate in Germany. All life Fridriha has been put on creation dendroparka in the middle of a slice never pahanoj steppes. What to understand that means «to give a life» it is necessary to go and look there on arychki, dug through to everyone not that that to a tree, and even to a bush. All park exists exclusively artificial polivu, well and abnormal love of employees. If you not the professional historian-botanik necessarily take the guide and sweep on park and steppe on tachanke, despite the wildish price in 400 grn. However, to make it it is uneasy – tachanki are painted for some weeks forward (I was stunned by quantity ekoturistov from Canada). If will not carry with a vehicle to take the guide in park. Simply without comments not to realise, how much human destinies are connected with this place. For me and remains a riddle, than the German who has spent a huge condition on preservation of a slice of steppe and creation dendroparka and as collecting of stone images which the local broke into building stones, but my respect he has deserved was based.
It is possible on the Gazelle for 30 grn along a fence, but it not though animals can and are lengthways expensive to walk. And there it is a lot of animals: herd of horses Przhevalsky, goats different, deer, bisons, antelopes of a gnu and kafrskie buffalo s. The last introduce an extreme element in walk: the driver constantly half-rises on goats what to trace their site and, God forbid, moving. Kafrov go round the party even on a safari therefore as they absolutely abnormal – rush on the person without any occasion. Thus speed of their run – to 60 km/h. The guide to us has bragged, that they have turned a tractor, and we somehow were pleasantly excited from such affinity of the wild nature. When I have looked at this buffalo in a shelter (speak it it first tried to break, and did not stop while it did not cast on neskolku hours to a number cold water) has come to conclusion, that its horns pressed to a forehead were a consequence of punching to themselves of road to lives a forehead, therefrom and unreasonable aggression. Has found article about them and has thought, that a little I worried … But it is good, that very well comes to an end (it I about myself), and after walk on park with peacocks who there plant as hens in village, we have decided to make the following stop in Genicheske – small port small town in the beginning of the Arabatsky arrow. After settlement in hotel we have rushed off on a meeting with sea of Azov, with expectation something unusual. Unusual it has appeared really unusual – we have found sea. Having got for Shooting (kilometres 30, likely) when the road similar to slate has ended and have begun fares on a grass (not less shiferopodobnye), we have decided not to ruin the car and to look for journey between boarding houses most zhutenkogo a kind. But far from it, all congresses rested against a bog behind which was a shaft hiding the sea. At least to see the sea became principle business. Thanks protection of boarding house the Express train for the given exit to the sea. Having washed taki hands and having admired really infinite beach we have found a full pacification. May, the sea – beauty!
But beauty beauty, however, rest on Arabatke it is obvious not for us. To sunbathe with children it is possible more precisely if cost was scanty yes – to arrive for a week. But the express train obviously is the only thing, while, boarding house with decent conditions, and absolutely Turkish prices. While - therefore as further on an arrow the big cases with an obvious sight on club rest … are under construction I Hope, people know that do.
In general if there is a desire to see wild places on Arabatke be going to go deep kilometres on 50 and say goodbye to the running. But at all I do not regret about attempt – the place has taken the place in memoirs.
In the morning we have left towards to friends, having accepted the offer to visit the Stone tomb in Melitopol area.
There was a rain, and the mood was sleepy. Have pending decided to drink coffee in village Peace, but have come across on unusual for kievljanina an obstacle – all three cafes work from 18-00. And one of them is an example to such itself of sharpness: passing on village have seen a logo of operator WelCom, and have thought, that somehow here podzaderzhalis with replacement of a signboard by a Biline, and in general to see strange it in a place where and Kievstar works with failures … But all was resolved, when the local resident to us has told «So it, cafe Welkom!» It is ingenious – to use the sound shone advertising which has lost an urgency.
Our expectation has come to the end together with a rain, and having reunited with Tychinami, we have gone on survey of the Stone tomb (an input – 2 grn.) to Esteem about it, actually, it is possible here, it is a little photos here. Besides, weight of resources speak about this place as about mystical and so on, but I to admit, have not felt any special vibrations though, probably, it from that that, has frozen; at the wife, the head has ached. As a whole, a place to visit costs – a direct touch to an antiquity.
And here, at last, we have moved to Crimea. Children, on a habit, waited customs and were surprised, why so have quickly overcome border. Long explained, that Crimea is too Ukraine. I, in turn, was surprised to that driving across Crimea does not call problems. However, when in some days I rushed for Igor on a streamer for speed 120 has understood, that problems taki can be, if the rubber scratch ends with failure of wheels. But Igor has appeared the fan of mountain roads, and after Georgia it for it in general walk, and I have calmed down, simultaneously having ceased to keep behind it. Thus, everyone took pleasure in own way, and to support hidden communication to us portable radio sets helped.
Having arrived to Simferopol (in transfer «the Useful city») we have visited the main mosque of the Crimean Tatars (skromnenko, but chistenko. 1508 like), city park (sights have not made on me impression) and ruins of Naples Scythian with a tower similar to modern construction, judging by ferro-concrete inside from which hills the remarkable kind on a city opens. While girls stirred about something the, and Igor lazal with the camera, I looked at old stones and tried to imagine people living here in the beginning of our era. It turned out badly … is much better that live here now saw to me: the dust gives the best representation, rather than stones.
After departure from Simferopol something in a head has clicked also events began to be pressed in one long day when the road alternates with survey of sights, and hotel rooms are represented only by some of them. Unfortunately, the tightened search of the first spending the night in Crimea has not allowed us to examine Sevastopol and Chersonese, and since the morning, agrees the plan, we have gone in Balaklavu. On road have a little lost the way, but have looked at the future pine grove which while is similar to steppe with not clear bushes.
Balaklava to me it was remembered in the childhood by the black painted vases similar to amphoras. More the such do not do – does not remain masters. All is filled by cheap hand-made articles, frequently the Chinese manufacture. It is a pity.
Fortunately, beauty of a bay has not decreased, and we have much admired it. Ruins of one of the Genoa fortresses introduce pleasant historical smack. On opposite coast of a bay a monument of our present – factory on repair of submarines. Demand for excursions in shtolni so is great, that tickets are redeemed for some days forward. So we have made a notch on the future and have gone in a direction to Bakhchisarai, having noted for visiting two cave cities – Mangup-Kale and Eski-Kermen.
Mangup – the most beautiful place. Also it is perceived entirely: the bottom part at lake, a valley, road (makes impression at any way of moving – though on foot though at the wheel though on the UAZ for 100 grn) and, actually, a cave city. Below set chajhan (so there will be plural from "chajhana"?) which are not visible from road. Set of tourists with tents. Set of simply having a rest people. But it does not stir all, and, more likely, does mood. Striking difference from atmosphere on JUBK: viscous, kabatsko-beach. All somewhere move, but vanity is not present; you are weakened, but, during too time, in a tone. Has glanced on kitchen: from tens women fuss and shout, all shkvarchit and soars, smells get through nostrils directly into a stomach and that begins is sweet to be compressed.
After a dinner we something rashrabrilis and, not looking at intimidations by the scratched cars and impassable impassability, have decided to reach to caves by cars. Have crossed a valley filled by the companies with shish kebabs (whence they have arrived?) Also have begun lifting on a narrow path upwards. All anything, but the deep track from a stream did lifting similar to an attraction: wheels are alternately hung out, places it is necessary to be scraped by a lateral part of a wheel on almost vertical wall of a track. Without a full drive and lowered there there is nothing. However, and with them too if only as we are not assorted by passion and malchishestvo. Bodrenko having started, through pair tens metres I began to close windows with thought «If we will turn over, though an eye branches we do not prick out». And then I with car became single whole: pleasant languor as if from potjagivanija, spread on me from the scratches of a body called by lists; I began to feel as lameli rubbers is tenacious catch at a stone, it seems if I have closed eyes even it would be better; the need was gone to operate by means of a wheel and pedals – nervous impulses were passed the car without consciousness participation. Unfortunately, this meditation has been interrupted by a smooth longitudinal failure (though UAZ with dispersal were carried by leaving black traces on walls). It is interesting, how they part at a meeting?
Having left cars on a successful eminence, we have reached a plateau on foot. And the people there … - have more than below. That is not surprising, because the quantity of the pedestrian tourists has pleasantly amazed us – they along all roads, on all parking. Long live a healthy way of life!
But it now visiting of such places – tourism (the truth not for all – in local caves there live the so-called "Indians" who have thrown a civilisation. One of them led there something like excursion and it seemed to me, that it the archeologist), and in the seventh century here there was the feudal state Feodoro which capital was Mangup. And vzbiranie on the tops guaranteed a survival. To me two histories were recollected about how was this fortress is taken. Once it took cunning: in 15 century Turks besieged a fortress half a year, but having understood, what is it can proceed still for a long time, their commander-in-chief has pretended, that takes away armies. When defenders of a fortress have rushed to catch up with the enemy, it took them in a ring from flanks and all has interrupted. The second way still krashe: with rupture in some centuries, I do not remember who, ordered to collect all musical instruments in district, and then three days and three nights its people rustled, not allowing to fall down to defenders of a fortress (as they slept?) And, when those have fallen asleep, took a fortress. Mangup-Kale was a penultimate place of dwelling karaimov. Therefrom they have got over in Chufut-Kale and completely owned nearby territories. Now them remains very little in the world. Many consider them as Jews, but, if to believe their followers from cafe in Chufut-Kale, they descendants hazar which have created the religion karaizm on the basis of a Judaism. Their high life has saved Turkic customs, and religious – became partly Judaic (they read a Torah and ignore the Talmud). Now the greatest community karaimov is in Lithuania in Trakae.
What not to jump – pair of words about Eski-Kermene. Too quite interesting place similar to a huge termitary – all is pitted by caves. Scientists and have not found out mission of the majority of holes in a rock, that me does not surprise, after all Eski-Kermen is translated with Turkic as «the Old fortress», and Tatars, here have come already in the eighth century, and already then it was old.
Below under a fortress, as well as everywhere, the local tourist industry boils: parkovshchik collects a tribute for standing on a grass, guides offer the services, the cafe feeds with shish kebabs and even the local hotel invites advertising «Berths in the equipped caves. 10 grn».
But all it even was lovely in comparison with unostentatious service on entrances to Chufut-Kale … There to us the offer from parkovshchika has arrived to sweep on royal road directly to collars of a fortress accompanied by the high quality guide of all for 100 grn. I admit, laziness was to make a remote way on foot and in hope to save time we have agreed. In general on mozhzhevelovoj to a grove it is possible to consider in itself driving as excursion, only it is a pity that the royal road has ended with a barrier with the lock from which at the guide there was no key. But this misunderstanding has not prevented us to carry out a campaign in a fortress. After an hour we have returned there whence have begun and nevertheless have taken by storm Chufut-Kale (the Judaic fortress).
Being warmed by walking we listened to the dissonant story of the guide about events of centuries-old prescription, about that as lived there any dervish, relieving women from barreness; about a cemetery under the Uspensky monastery on which redeemed places notable people of an epoch of Russian-Turkish wars; about fascist gun Dora which of Bakhchisarai fired at Sevastopol. By the way, that gun was served by four thousand persons, it has been used unique of several constructed, weight of a shell – 7 tons, and built for bombardment of France.
Rising all I am closer to a fortress thought that the mankind does not vary: only took fortresses for zavladenija to the earths, and now places in parliament … Thirst of the power as it seems to me, instead of laziness earlier, is progress motive power.
To us Chufut-Kale never took by storm. Once besieged and have punched a wall in 13 century, and the second - by means of traitors when have thrown dead verbljuzhonka in a well. And without water, as is known, both tudy, and sjudy. This well have found out in 1999г. And for today it is completely cleared by forces of enthusiasts and accepts tourists. About 50 metres the well is beaten out by depth in rocky breed and has a spiral staircase without uniform strengthening. On it, as to us the guide told (one of enthusiasts), people went with wineskins behind water during a siege. We had a question why supposedly a well behind a wall, but to us have quickly explained, that at that time there were three more walls below that, that have possibility to see. Descent and lifting in a well have appeared unexpectedly easy. The guide (muzhichina with a broad beard and mentor tone) has ordered not to look out during descent upwards for at falling from such height the two-cheap coin punches a building helmet. I have very quickly looked downwards, have received the remark, and in the answer have joked «you said, that upwards it is impossible to look». Judging by that all group has been stopped also to me lecture about acceleration of free falling not dependent on position of my head is read, it has obviously doubted my mental faculties. However, such cheerful any I has visited a well – inscriptions of candles on a ceiling dated the eighteenth century have been shown us! Something like «Here were I and Sofia» in Latin.
Fortress Chufut-Kale breathes history, likely because people have left it rather recently – in 1852. In territory interesting objects were well saved many: mausoleum Nenekedzhan-hanym (Dzhanike-hanym), daughters of khan Tohtamysha, which in 1382г., in two years after Kulikovsky fight, has burnt Moscow; the rests of the old Muslim mosque built in 1346, well saved serf defensive walls, a waterpipe, the artificial caves, two karaimskie kenassy – prayful houses. One of vaults as assume, served as a casemate in which long years pined notable captives of the Crimean khans, among them the boyar V.Sheremetev, prince A.Romanovsky, Polish hetman N.Pototsky and others. Sheremetev 21 year has stayed there, for it asked too big repayment – Kazan and Astrakhan. Two surprisingly look deep, knee-deep, a track from wheels of carts in the central street in which end there is a cafe with karaimskoj kitchen. To count on it as on high-grade cafe I would not become, but for test if will carry, will fit. First of all, considering ours prodroglost, we have tried buzu and karaimskuju tincture CHopraksy. Buza is something an average between wheaten beer and kvass though I have not felt there some alcohol. And here tincture has made the most favorable impression: 56 degrees, on taste it is similar on Beherovku. According to the mistress, the tincture recipe was saved only in several karaimskih families. And the structure includes the Altay honey (from ours it spoils), and spirit is overtaken their grapes by one family in Simferopol. In the same place in cafe we have studied photos and life subjects karaimov, and I also the visitors' book – perfect entertainment in a meal waiting time. And meal at them very much even anything, if only you not the opponent of plastic ware and easy insanitary conditions. A menu hit – karaimskie pies ajaklaki with different stuffings. And still there there was very tasty coffee. Important role in our complacent perception of cafe absence of tourists has played. For certain during a season something there is created terrible. Approximately as in absolutely faceless, but the only thing of cafe near the Marble cave where we have arrived after Chufut-Kale. The quantity thirsting to go down more close to a hell did not please even workers – two-hour turns tired not only tourists. But to us, as well as always, carried – we could occupy a little table indoors and have a drink hot to tea. Having passed away time behind a proring of hotels in Alushte we have gone to an input (40 grn from the person). Somehow at once it became clear, that with the guide to us has not carried. The cave explorer has got tongue-tied, slightly drunk, with an inferiority complex. In my opinion excursion support would be to limit to the facts, so to say, the scientific, slightly diluted associations with natural forms, but as not on the contrary enough. And at all it is not necessary to humiliate with jokes group. However, not looking on what, the cave amazes imagination. All these staloktity, stalagmites, stalagnaty grow with a speed micron a year, that is millions years were necessary for them what to take a modern form. Personally in me it installed reverential trembling, but here the tourist from friendly Poland did not divide my delights and oblapal everything what could reach. I hope it simply has not understood, that destruction of the top layer for these miracles perniciously. For last 9 years, that I there was not, have opened for excursions one more hall – it more compact, but, but, has much more freakish forms. Here, as in picture gallery of abstract artists, it is possible to stand long at each composition and to compose fantastic plots. It would be good to appear there in loneliness and not limited in time. And so three hours of excursion are carried by as a preview trailer – only tease. Last time to us with the wife has carried also we have passed the bottom level marble as cave explorers. Memoirs – till the end of a life. For today similar practice is stopped, however there are extremes-rounds (from 200 grn) in a cave Red.
We have made an evening extreme-round in restaurant "N mile" - not easily to make the order when the waiter on the majority of dishes speaks «excuse, is not present». When the consensus has been found we lovely have sat behind a flounder and pleasant conversation (250 grn).
Morning of next day has stood out warm and serene. Time land interesnostej has come. The first stop – falls Dzhur-Dzhur. What to pass to it from parking it would be necessary to pass metres five hundred on a shady grove and to overcome a check point for 10 grn. However the quantity of the pedestrian tourists meeting after a check point, allows to draw a conclusion, that somewhere there is other pass. I went nespesha, examining the freakish form trees and sometimes small river shown below. At falls we were waited directly by the Babel which has not prevented, however, to take pleasure falling water. After returning to parking we have indulged in passions and have bought mushrooms on 5 griven and fault.
And here we again on road. To move along the sea – special pleasure. That you look at constantly varying kind more, there is a sensation that you are in the car of the future with the autopilot. Nevertheless, we make sudden change to a route and we stop at novostrojashchejsja church-beacon. There and then one more sight approaches on us – a column of bikers. As it has appeared – from Kharkov. We were threw by several words, have photographed small on their devices and as them against church, and have moved further.
The streamer is a jazz. To get to a rhythm difficult because it all time varies. I even have recollected a word "syncope", but on the speed set by Igor, approached "tryndets" more. The second, the third, rulenie, dump, the third, the second, rulenie, the third, the fourth, ruleeeenie, the third, the second. Choking from rulezhki and beauty we suddenly turn off on proselok and again we move on a first coat with a ditch upwards. We climb up a hill to next razvaline and suddenly we find out, that a hill next. However having looked round we understand, that in another way in any way and not to approach, therefore we throw cars and we run to a tower. We run because energy well simply overflows. At last around only we, the sea, the sky and mountains. And only one very polite pedestrian tourist. The life so overflows, that children climbing up on a wall do not call the slightest alarm. Air is filled by sensation, that all is and it will be good. In a word – ljapota. Ourselves stand on a tower top long enough and we do not wish to leave. Igor from any bottomless store rooms of the information is broadcast to us, what is it by a tower of any brothers-genoeses who have run away here. Whether I know much they should, but I would run away here simply so.
We should to run, and to go further. And here we drive to New Light – small town tiny, but with any kind aura. However, in season peak it is possible to eat a tar spoon on the only thing suitable for a parking pjatachke having learnt, that a parking 20 grn at an o'clock, and then and the second in not cheap cafe on quay where to me have submitted for 20 grn «a potato baked with cheese» exactly as a boiled potato sprinkled with cheese razogretaja in mikrovolnovke (a dinner for three 130грн). But it is nonsense against karskogo a shish kebab becoming in a hole with walls shone from heat and photomodels changing clothes under a window, posing group of the Kiev photographers-seminarists. We have then overtaken them on Golitsyn's track and I even them a little pofotografiroval, and the wife has stuck to the laying young man with a question «to you badly?», but it has appeared, that it removed any moss. In general, we again were not lonely. Besides could look at the courageous and desperate guys soaring over stones.
The sun wearily tended to horizon, but we of weariness do not know – forward to sudakskoj a fortress. Here I learn again from Igor (on such fellow travellers to pray it is necessary), that genoeses are representatives of trading guild from Genoa (but the basis was in Cafe – present Feodosiya) which have constructed a network of fortresses-reloading points worldwide, and had such power that wars presumed to sponsor to themselves. But we have somehow taken a great interest in walk on a fortress and have lost sight, that in the plan there was still Old Crimea, easy it was struck off the list and have directed skis towards Feodosiya.
There we are waited incendiary-feerichnyj by evening in the American pub «Daddy Bills». On an input from us have requested on 80 grn from the person for the cultural program, but we have promised not to dance and «normally to attempt» so administratorsha, looking in compassionate eyes of kiddies, has surrendered. The institution is not bad sustained in style of the American tavern, however for such bright menu with wings Buffalo, devil sauces and the American portions in a half a kilogramme, the kitchen could be more interesting. Though it already so, cavils. If such institution with such price lists was in Kiev, I would be there the habitue (120 grn for two).
The city has impressed rather favourably. Mess with streets because of double names and blocked by beds one of the central streets (have probably decided to make foot, yes and have thrown) only added a piquancy. Having given in to a measured rhythm we proshestvovali to quay, poudivljalis with the wife to trains going along a beach, have looked at Ayvazovsky's museum and have come into Green's museum. Well and, where without it, have gone to the next fortress absolutely started, though and having the charisma. In territory there is the small church obviously including a part of very old construction. And so despite rather poor furniture somehow in it well and solemnly, atmosphere completely not such as in novostrojah.
Even more ancient construction, cathedral of Prophet John Krestitelja and Forerunner Gospodnja (10 centuries), we have found in a following city – in Kerch. In the same place from the guidebook we have found out, that it is considered the oldest land hristjanskoj construction. Absolutely impressing.
Kerch was stretched on 40 kilometres and from height mitridastkogo a hill looks in a crowd settlements united by roads. From the same height Tuzla and Russia is visible - have sent regards. Actually looking on kerchinskuju a bay it becomes clear, why for this place fight from time immemorial – very successful strategic point. The first city (Panticapaeum) here has been put in pawn in 6 century B.C. In the same place on a hill the acropolis rests were saved. The second saved part of Panticapaeum – the Imperial barrow, we simply had not time to visit in view of its remoteness. Panticapaeum gunnami in 5 century B.C. has been destroyed. In 6 century of already our era of a city Byzantines have taken hold and have named it Bosporom, and after a century it have grasped hazary. In 10 century it was a part of the Kiev Russia and then the mentioned cathedral has been constructed. Rusichi have named the city of Korochevym. In 1318 it has changed again owners and became Genoa colony CHerkio. In 1475 has been grasped by Turkey. The Turk reminds fortress Eni-Kale (1703) of three centuries of domination, so never and not pouchavstvovavshaja in battles. In the same place nearby children have found out the rests already more or less modern fortifikatsionnyh constructions with any huge walls on a thickness, but I have not got there. In 1774 the city was a part of Russian empire and since then began to get in bolshej degrees port value.
Time approached by the evening, and our travel the end. At 16.30 we have left Kerch on purpose to stretch as it is possible further. On entrances to Nikolaev we entertained children razgljadyvaniem extreme quantity of plane sparks in the darkened sky. As suddenly docha has shouted «the Daddy, look – herd of planes!» I have looked and was stunned – on us rushed UFO: a shone circle in an assembly of sparks and two columns of light resting against the earth. However, shortly all has cleared up is there was a helicopter, something searching below. But such illumination I at helicopters never saw. Even it seemed to me, that blades have been specially illuminated from below. This pustjashnaja a meeting has considerably recovered us and after settlement we on the second breath have gone to a pub where have celebrated the termination of our round.
The conclusion. All trip me was not left by sensation, that I am a child touching stones on a beach. It only at a sight of the adult drinking beer they grey and identical. And the child sees in everyone something surprising and extraordinary valuable. I touch the stones of memoirs grasped with self and I rejoice to that a smog them extract.