Old, pure, religious. Such Lvov for a week of my stay there was remembered to me. More in detail – in questions and answers.
First, why Lvov? It would be desirable for limits of the CIS, and the passport is not present. Therefore the choice has fallen to the Western Ukraine, as on the rests of Europe on the post-Soviet territory. It would be desirable first to Uzhgorod, but from the North Caucasus I would reach it day three, and that on post-horses. And to Lvov from our places there is a hook-on car Kislovodsk-Lvov that is very convenient. So, month of everyday information searches on the Internet, hotel accommodation booking "Vlasta" and … have gone.
How went? From road there were good impressions. Border transition has appeared formality – in bags did not rummage, currency did not look. However, from our car Russian pograntsy have removed the woman with the passport delayed on 4 (!) year. Almost 6 hours stood in Dnepropetrovsk, waited, while the car peretsepjat to other train. All compartments have walked on a city. Impressions of a city – I in Russia. Everywhere Russian speech, even announcements in shops in Russian. Have surprised the low prices for products in shops.
Lvov. Where veins? Hotel "Власта". Wanted first in "Nton", but single standards have been occupied one month prior to a trip. Therefore has dared at number choice in hotel sovdepovskogo type. From all similar has stopped on "Vlaste" because only it one of the few has passed certification and has received "fair" two stars. My call to hotel about booking has called there first some bewilderment – type that there to reserve, pleasure cost – 150гр. Single not improved – 135. The first impression of "hotel" - not so. Absolutely at all very much. A ragged 12-storeyed box. Inside similarly. A creaking parquet of 19-unknown year, an armchair of times of the developed socialism in foyer and the person on duty, which disappeared that on 3м on 7м a floor takes yes come. However have agreed to leave for 7 days single improved number. The blessing, the lift worked. BUT! Number has appeared contrary to appearance of hotel quite good. Modern furniture (two pressed through ancient armchairs – it is not counted), the colour TV, a refrigerator, an electric kettle, a set of tablewares, good the sanitary technician. All was saddened it only by absence of hot water till nine evenings. Cold was constantly. Silently. Tenants, except me, was a little. More shortly, hotel – firm "four".
Where ate? As to spite, from a head names kafeshek which were praised by the people on the Internet have taken off, therefore did not begin to subtilize, ate in "TSitruBistro" in the street SHevskoj, near to Freedom prospectus. It is more 22х gr. Did not spend (the first, the second, beer). Service, quality of products – at height. Once came in «Puzatu a hut». Whether cafe, whether a modern dining room. You go with a tray, itself you choose the necessary products, you pay all in cash desk. There for a leaky dinner has given 10гр. Came into the Italian court yard. Conditions, service have pleased, and here coffee which was reserved … by me generally not the expert on coffee, therefore into the menu has stuck with a finger in more or less approaching under the price. Called him «Coffee on-tallinski». There was a coffee with cognac. Has hardly drunk up a cup. If not the price in 9гр., would leave. But who knew, what so leaves?
Where to change money? It is a little, on the first hours, it is possible to change in a train. Anybody never forges small things, so it is possible not to be afraid. A course in trains too, as a rule, not so bad. In a city of exchangers it is a lot of. In the centre even it is a lot of. But a favourable rate far away from the centre. Yes, by the way, first I with grivnas had a problem. First, it is a lot of them. 1,2,5,10,20,50,100,200,500. Secondly, they different. That is on two kinds of tens, the twenty, fifty-kopeck pieces. Others, can, too the different. In a course both those, and so it is possible to "lose the way" first in the Ukrainian currency.
What how much? In general Ukraine has seemed to me enough the INEXPENSIVE country. From this, that is more expensive than ours – gasoline (92й – our 24 roubles), bread (roubles 8-9), media production (the disk with music has bought for 20гр., i.e. 110р.). Perhaps something is and more more expensive, but I on shops especially not shastal. Has surprised, and even has angered, that the rent "there" is less, than at us. I do not speak about all country, I am based on the story of the acquaintance from Sambora, that in 70км. From Lvov. (A column and the furnace) he pays for gas 80рублей, the electric power – 1р.10 or 1р.20 kilovattchas, I do not remember precisely. Journey in marshrutke in Drogobyche, 70км. From Lvov, 3р. In recalculation on ours. Satellite aerials, plastic windows, shoes, socks, beer, vodka, mineral water are cheaper on 30-50 %. A taxi – at level of hundred our roubles.
How communicated with local population? Basically, on-ukrainski. Because I live on Kuban, in the Cossack places, and on a wild mix of an Ukrainian language and Russian at us speak in each village, half of villages and a quarter of cities. Certainly, my Ukrainian language excellent to name it was impossible, but the people me "rozumel". The problem was, on the contrary, that I almost did not understand them. Asked to pass on Russian or to speak more slowly. It is good, that in Lvov in Russian speak many. In general in the first days of stay there I even was surprised to that so often I hear Russian speech in streets and in shops. More shortly, language, more correctly, its ignorance is not a problem absolutely.
Whether it is valid in Lvov nationalists? Nationalists did not see, saw nationalism expressions. Inscriptions on houses "Janukovich-zlody", «Ukraine for Ukrainians», Stepan Bandery, Dzhohara Dudaev's street and for some reason George Vashingtona. But it is interesting not. Interestingly that in Lvov, and in all Ukraine (I judge on television channels which in my hotel TV was about ten) there is a national pride, love to the country. In advertising national music, in streets yellow-dark blue symbolics. Even trains in Ukraine (everywhere!) Dark blue with yellow strips. And when in day of mourning, on July, 27th (near Lvov the fighter during show has broken) on EACH house I have seen national colours with a black tape has like respect for these people. Last day stay there I have come into a small little shop of audio-video of production to buy a disk with tool Ukrainian music. The seller has shown me ten different disks. At us I did not see disks with a folk music even in abrupt media supermarkets.
What did I examine in Lvov? Transfer of architectural monuments – business very boring, therefore – is short. 1. A high castle. A hill, or even mountain in the middle of a city. An excellent panorama of Lvov. Field-glasses for rent, 3 dews. Rouble minute. It is a lot of tourists. 2. The centre. Easier to go and look, like Middle Ages atmosphere. A town hall. To rise it is possible only with excursion group, alone it is impossible. Museums on the area the Market. 3. Freedom prospectus. To sit in the afternoon in a shade of trees, to have a rest from bustle on medieval quarters of the centre. After nine evenings as «on a secret» have informed local, it is local street of "red lanterns». 4. Stryjsky park. This place has made upon me the greatest impression. First, I, as the photographer and the video operator, have found there a large quantity of "landscape nature». Secondly, there it is silent and quiet. Millet to have a rest from noise of cars, bustle on streets, vanities of the big city is very good to sit. Thirdly, there almost European level of cleanliness. Having bypassed all park, from dust I there have seen only alone laying bottle from under champagne. Fourthly, there it is very beautiful. Artificial falls, stone bridges, lake with swans which are fed from hands of visitors, the fibers which are scurrying about at shops on whom sit babuli and read books. Idyll any. 5. A Lychakovsky cemetery. A cemetery as a cemetery, ancient family tombs, tombs of known people, a huge Polish memorial. But long there I have not sustained – somehow not on myself was to go and photograph tombs another's to me people. 6. Shevchenkovsky gaj. One more acknowledgement of that Ukrainians like Ukraine. Wood. In wood there are ancient huts brought from all country, melnichki, wells, churches. There is even a school. Inside – standard subjects of use – furniture, ware, clothes, icons on walls and dolls in cradles. It is a lot of structures, pieces 50-70. Are placed enough far apart. That is you go to yourself on a footpath in wood, here – the house. On a zavalinka – babulja-smotritelnitsa. Has come, has looked, further in wood, to the following house, wooden church or still there that. Has got tired to go – has sat down near to smotritelnitsej, has listened to its story, has gone further. Very much it was pleasant.
Than in general Lvov has liked? Cleanliness (a piece of paper thrown on sidewalk – almost sensation). Religiousness (the people praying at standing on sidewalk to a statue of Maiden Maria – norm). "TSvetochnostju" (on half of windows in the centre, on lanterns, columns – natural flowers in pots). Love to the country (told above). Architecture. Beautiful parks.
Than has not liked? 1. "Russkostju" («the speech is Russian» it is audible very often. I thought, that meal in «almost Europe», and have got in «almost Russia» in the language plan). 2. Roads. The separate story. The Lvov roads are legendary. It is an automobile hell. Why there still there go "Copecks" both 24е and 21е (!) "Volga", for me remains a riddle. Aerobatics of local taxi drivers – to go two wheels on a tram rail. Otherwise shakes as in a tractor on a country road. 3. Beer. Any it there "Europeanized" - soft, without grain smack and bitterness. But this business of taste. 4. Absence of hot water till 21 o'clock. In the summer it is not terrible, and here in the winter …
The resume. Cheaply and interestingly. Here two factors by which the trip to Lvov was remembered to me. Has already promised to itself a year later to go to this city again. There is in him something clinging for a soul.