I will begin with that for last year I was some times in the west to Ukraine, but basically it there were Ternopol, Chernovitsky and Lvov areas. This time has decided to open new horizons, to open for itself Zakarpate ….
Day the first.
I like will, простір, далечінь,
Bo I the barge haulier z far поколінь,
In one місці I not mozhu to live,
Іти at mandri all mene kortit.
Road time has come. Gloomy morning. The sleepy city saw off us a drizzle. Our way laid through Zhitomir-Berdychev-Hmelnik in Medzhibozh. It is the first zaplanirovanaja a stop. Here I already happened in August, 2005. Has changed nothing since then. All the same mighty fortress of 500 years which have seen almost. All same rivers wash fortress coast – Southern bug and Buzhok. After fortress survey had a bite in in a roadside complex "Medzhibosh" and have gone further through district Khmelnitskiy as to Chernovtsy to with. Dunaevtsy, further on the Rock-Podolsk where the following stop has been planned.
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Earlier the city was called the Rock or the Rock over Zbruchem. The lock stood here in first half 14 items In 60-70 after attacks of Tatars princes Koriatovichi have built up the lock. But attacks of Tatars proceeded and in 1516 the lock burns down. But inhabitants build up it anew. The army Here takes places. Alas, but after an attack volohov in 1538 the lock is again destroyed. But again and again was vostanovlen. In 1648 the lock I grasp Cossacks, having banished with it Poles. The lock has begun upadat after its proprietor became Derd ІІ Rakotsi. In 1765 lock it is burnt by fire from a lightning. Here such compressed history, is no time the notable lock, now gloomy ruins. Further we go in Losjach where to be a church, such small and accurate, it is direct as from a fairy tale.
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Then we go through Ozernjany on Thick and further on JAzlovets. We leave the car at a church
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And further we stamp on road upwards by a barrier. We Stamp-is stamped along wood. We leave to a field further and the road turns off to the right, to us not there, to us is direct. Wood now at the left, and in some minutes already round us, now road leaves downwards through metres 10 basic track leaves more to the left and the footpath goes sharply downwards, here on this footpath downwards-downwards-downwards (and then that upward!!!). Here so, below too a road track, it it is crossed and we continue a way on a footpath which through bushes deduces us to the bridge.
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Akkurat have passed the bridge and further mona on road on the left, or along small river on a current. There we went along small river. Luga, the hills covered with wood, small river runs, the sweet smell of colours, the sun burns … Here so on the sly on the right we were pressed by wood and at the left water, and bezha on this noise we nezametili porosshy with a grass a cross from which the footpath goes more to the left … and having run along the river already rustled, having jumped over a streamlet we uvidili only reefs which created noise … further road rested against the river. Already thought to come back back as has come ingenious ideas to check up that for a streamlet. Indeed!!! Having passed metres 50 along it we leave on the first falls!!! Ur!!! Have found!!! Water crystal-clear and here in the tideway of small river, it is possible to see how much you want dust … it is a pity …
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So, how much falls I do not know ….no if to go kanyonom small rivers I could reach to 6, with each falls thresholds all above and above. The sixth flows from height of 11 metres. And here that path about which I spoke (only I assume earlier) goes along all falls but already near to a canyon. Having taken a walk among falls, we with sister have gone back, the same road. To go to falls about an hour. But the pleasure costs that, it was a pity that the schedule is compressed on time, there it is possible to walk all the day, and in the summer, probably and to bathe under cool waters of Rusilovsky falls.
Following stop Kolomyja, there also was planned a stop. Just there was time of a sunset and we have decided to call in in CHervonograd (with. Dives) and taki it costed that, in evening beams the lock and all lowland pleasantly pleased with colours of young spring.
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Further Kolomyja, hotel "Пысанка", 144 grn a double room for days. Nearby hotel "Коломыя", even more close, in metres so twenty museum pisanki.
Day of the second
Вітре tsigane klichut in road
Burn a temple і, далекі kra ї.
Poison at dews, місяць і зорі
Vognishcha ночі j dumi сумні.
Вітре tsigane in високім небі
Hmari далекі j leleki...
So, morning of the second day vstrelilo us the dark blue sky and the bright, dazzling sun. The museum pisanki otkryvaetsja from 10 o'clock in the morning, and till this time I has decided to walk on a city. Very pleasant small town, among cities it most to be to Carpathians more close. Cleanliness of streets, uhozhennost small houses, architecture of a city has pleased.
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Having talked to the local native, has learnt, that having left early in the morning by an electric train aside Vorohty it is possible to rise on Goverlu and evening of the same day to be in Kolomye. In the same way for a day it is possible to rise and go down on popivan (Mountain Chornuju on which to be Austro-Hungarian (if am not mistaken) an observatory). The local native appears a conductor on mountains. Here its co-ordinates on vsjak a case 8 066 1457148 – Sasha. It has recommended to descend in a museum of nationality Zakarpatja (well it not so is called, but the sense is clear), it to be behind museum Pysanki, the White building with a weather vane in the form of a lion.
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By the way at the left through road from a museum to be «Художній salon» where it is possible to get anything you like from clothes or ornaments Zakarpatja. From handles and pipes, and finishing winter casings.
So, having passed two museums, zakupavshis souvenirs, we go to foot Goverly.
On road it is passed JAremche, Vorohtu. Impresses in both settlements railway bridges and besides very much the Ry branch as it winds by mountains and the rivers impresses, disappearing and jumping out from tunnels.
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Our road lays to foot Goverly, to base "Zarosljak". On lifting to base snow already lays. We stop what to take pleasure in the nature, from a mouth there is steam … and is audible silent but sharp psssssssssssss. A wheel.
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From you of time. Zapaska on a place, and for 20 minutes all in a full order. Certainly, it would be desirable, as well as Igor Meshov to rise at least to the Meteorological station. But weather, and so early visit have introduced the corrective amendments. As soon as we left the car at base "Zarosljak" the rain with hailstones has gone. Here to you and Carpathians. As to us the manager of base lifting to a meteorological station has told occupies about a half an hour. Sister has refused to go, so it was necessary to rise to one, at times failing on "utrambovonoj" to a snow footpath above a knee. And and you will not tell that a snow layer such thick. In minutes 25 I have approached to the bridge with which it is already visible a meteorological station, but hotby to it on minutes 20 is stable. So this time having made control pictures at the bridge has gone downwards to the car.
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The following stop with. Business, a centre of the universe, the centre of Europe according to Austro-Hungarian scientists. This place to slip difficult. At once behind a boundary post the Ry bridge, and hardly further at the left parking with a memorable sign.
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Now we go in Solotvino, very much wished to get to a museum and in salty mines. But time 18:20. And already anybody is not present. The only thing that could be learnt, that with utretsa and a museum it is possible to look and agree about descent in mine. But, probably, next time. It is necessary to note that from Solotvino and to Husta as however and on all Zakarpatju it is possible to see old derevjanye churches. Also it is for the present light have decided them to look. Alas, the first stop in Steblevke has brought an easy shock – the church of 18 centuries has burnt down in 1994. Have not saved ….
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Sleduaja a stop in Krajnikivo, Danilovo and Sokirnitsah have yielded positive results. And we could see both an ex-terrier and an interior of these instructions of architecture.
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Now it is possible in Hust. Motel "Carpathians", 133 grn a double room. A parking free. So there has passed the second day.
Day the third.
Oh, vodo-vodograj, graj for us, graj!
Tanok свій zhvavy ti not zupinjaj.
For krasnu пісню on всі wail
SHCHo hochesh, vodograju, ask.
Being afraid that in a valley of narcissuses will be populous, and the plan was enough big for this day, it was necessary to rise hardly before usual, and by 8 o'clock we were already in a valley of colours. 10 griven for entrance on teritoriju. It appears, the narcissus is a mountain flower and in protsese evolutions has gone down in a valley. Similar fields existed for Zakarpate, but were not saved. But in some places of high mountains these flowers can be met. The valley is big green teritorija, fences of anything such I did not see. And narcissuses blossom lawns. Has begun to smell in air sweet from an aroma of flowers. Very beautiful place.
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In 50 minutes we leave towards lake Sinevir. And the plan was that lake Sinevir, falls SHipot and through Svaljavu in Irshavu what to have time to drive at 13:30 on a narrow-gauge railway.
So the Sinevirsky lake (the Sea Eye) to be bliz villages the Sinevirsky glade. In mezhgore it is turned on Sinevir and further on the Sinevirsky glade on a streamer on a hill from it and there already almost by a hand a tax. The lake lays near mountains Lake (1495) and Slenizor (1235) and also near the Water efficient ridge at height of 987 m. the lake Area – 7 hectares. The maximum depth of 24 m.
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Here what legend about lake is laid out on a site "Males-SINEVRI-round"
«... In ancient times these mountains belonged to the rich count, and verhovintsy have been compelled to work for it: you-pasat of count sheep and cows to cut wood, to mow a grass. The count had a beauty the daughter the Blue. The girl called so because in the opinion of it all blue bottomless karpatskogo the sky, appear, has been collected.
Once the rich man has decided to check up, how its farm laborers-woodcutters work in mountains. The blue has asked to take the father it with itself. While the count checked job of woodcutters, the daughter collected flowers on a glade.
Suddenly its hearing have reached wonderful perelivy pipes, and the girl has gone on these sounds. On a lawn where sheep were grazed, she has seen the young man who selflessly played a pipe.
Having noticed the girl, the young man has ceased to play.
- Who you? - He has with astonishment asked.
- I the Blue. These woods and mountains belong to my father. And you who?
- I Vir, the shepherd of the count.
The girl has asked to play it still, and in wood bewitching melodies long sounded. Towards evening the girl has said goodbye with Virom, having promised to come to see him soon. After a while the Blue has again met with Virom. All was, as well as for the first time. Young men have grown fond each other and began to meet secretly. But malicious envious persons have informed the count, that his daughter likes the simple shepherd.
The count has forbidden the daughter to meet with Virom. But unless the love can be subject to someone's will? Not ostano-twisted the Blue interdictions of the father, have not frightened Vira threat of the count. And then the count has ordered to kill the shepherd.
Once, when Vir, playing a pipe, waited on a wood glade liked, count servants have crept and have pushed off on it from high mountain a huge stone...
Having learnt a terrible message, the Blue has run through mountains and woods to a place of destruction of the beloved. The girl has embraced a huge stone-tomb and has bitterly begun to cry.
The maiden tears flew and flew, yet have not flooded all glade and a Blue, having formed lake which people have named Sinevir. Water in lake dark blue, as the sky over Carpathians as Blue eyes, and the islet in the middle of lake is a top of a stone-tomb of the Blue and Vira... »
Entrance on territory of reserve 2 grn from the person, lifting to lake like as 5 grn for the car and more on 1 grn from the person (like so). Here along abrupt road upwards we are accompanied by a prompt small mountain stream.
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Still to steam of minutes and we at the purpose. We leave from the car. And after warm spring at once we are dipped into cool mountain air. Silence. Natural cleanliness. A remarkable place. Lake the cleanest. Alas time at us was not so much and after a respite on wooden shops near lake and contemplation of the surrounding nature we have moved further to a way.
Further falls SHipot. But in Sojmah proshchelkivaem turn also we go aside Stryja where that through 20 km have come round. The most interesting that visiting in villages on this road was not indexes of settlements. Kind djadka dalnoboj to us has told about our errors. Time is lost and on the Irshavsky narrow-gauge railway already hardly we will be in time. Make decision to go in Vinogradov. There the train goes at 16.10. So at first we look on falls SHipot. Having curtailed from the main road the tourist bus is caught up. Well all I think, this hour povylezajut grandmothers and grandfathers of the paparazzi and you do not resemble normally near falls. But we slip in an opening and already the first. Further awful soil road. And then the road also is crossed by mountain small river, depth of centimetres 30. But to force it did not become, though saw as it has made the UAZ. Nearby there is a bridge. So we have decided to be kneaded a little bit. To falls to go there was not for long, one more bridge and we almost at the purpose. Control pictures have gone.
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At first I photographed sister, and when my turn has come, young tourists of the bus – children of years 8-10 have seemed also. Oh as they pressed, but taki it was possible to pull out pair of normal shots.
In Piliptse to be the Mihajlovsky church which just shifted a roof special small dosochkami – shingles.
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Now on Svaljavu. Here two routes or Svaljava-Irshava-Vinogradov, or on new mega trase Svaljava to Mukachevo, and then on Beregovo from it already on Vinogradov. The second was longer but was expensive so good that from it in general to turn off it would not be desirable. The Odessa line has a rest. Yes, there all on a strip in each party, on descent or lifting pojavljaetsja one more strip, but how much beautiful and good road. Destvitelno you have a rest and you take pleasure. The Shenbornsky lock is left for tomorrow. In Mukachevo it is turned on Beregovo (on the second circle the index). And here in Beregovo again hitch, on (in my opinion) one and only traffic light on our way to this city it was necessary to leave on the left, we have rushed off directly, through moving and have come round only in Astee. Here it was already clear that we precisely were late for a train. We come back in Beregovo and therefrom already easy we go aside Vinogradova.
Passing on village road it seems, what is it not Ukraine, and Hungary. Abosljutno other architecture of small houses.
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Vinogradove we in it even more were surprised more strongly. Some older persons do not know the Ukrainian language, the others though communicated with us in an Ukrainian language (sometimes hardly), among themselves communicated on the Hungarian. Time too a miscellaneous, is Kiev time, is local–1 hour. People basically swarty, brunettes. As it has appeared to be here they rusiny. Here so. And trains it was final any more. But have patched a wheel, have washed the car, have refuelled, attempted. Also have lodged in hotel. 120 griven a double room with the conveniences, the closed parking. In the evening taki have seen parovozik the narrow-gauge.
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But if in the afternoon it went in Hmelnik and came back, now it goes and comes back late at night. So to drive it was not necessary on him. But the occasion will arrive again in Zakarpate. So the third day of a trip has come to an end.
Day the fourth.
“There de сіда є sontse, there de bluka є вітер
There de on poloninah дзвінка the moon трембіта
There de зелені burn, there de високі hmari ”
In a pursuit for “mountain tramvajchikom” yesterday we have passed lock Shenborn and today it was necessary to return to it. We come back through Mukachevo, from road it is visible the big lock. But it while remains for us not investigated.
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Lock SHenborn to be on trase between Mukachevom and Svaljavoj, is hardly closer to the second. Now it is sanatorium "Carpathians" where treat cores. The lock has been constructed by count Buhejmom Shenbornom in 1890-1895 the Lock, to be exact the hunting palace constructed in romano-Gothic style. Very interestingly that in the lock of 365 windows (days in a year), 52 flues (weeks in a year), 12 inputs. The lock to find very easily. Opposite to entrance to be the Ry station, likely unique and unique in Ukraine. So to miss difficult.
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Having had a drink kofejku and having walked on park we go further. Sledushchaja a stop – the Nevitsky lock. On the district we pass Uzhgorod. At the left, on a hill ostaetsja the Uzhgorod lock. Very soon on a hill, but already on the right vidneetsja a tower of the Nevitsky lock.
From article “Tverdinja Uzhansko ї dolini”, the newspaper "Day" 19.05.2002 V.Zubach.
“Історія nevitskogo to the lock pochina¾tsja des at XII столітті. Jogo будівництв bulo pov'jazane z aktivnoju proruskoju політикою ugorskih королів, zrostannjam ролі гірських перевалів і шляхів, які conducted through Karpati on північ і схід to Galich that Ki¾va. Тоді the lock buv zemljanim a site of ancient settlement insignificant розмірів, укріплення jakogo skladalisja z валів, ровів.
In березні to 1241 fate mongolo-tatari ввірвалися in Ugorshchinu through pass Veretsky, zrujnuvali укріплення in nevitskomu. In другій половині XIII століття jogo znovu відновили. In 1279 році ugorsky king Laslo IV (1274 — 1290) having passed усі володіння комітату Ung і jogo управління трансільванському воєводі Фінті z to a sort About. Після jogo smert і, gospodarem Uzhanshchini і nevitskogo to the lock becoming jogo brother Omodej, jaky володів by the lock to 1311 rivers In Ugorskomu королівстві it was started epoha міжусобиць, borotbi магнатів for королівський a throne. Omodej і jogo a blue took in ній aktivnu a fate. nevitsku fortetsju, shcho bula місцем perebuvannja zhupana that jogo помічників, укріплюють. Same on межі XIII — XIV століть on місці kruglo ї bashti budu¾tsja novy chotirikutny lonzhon, and біля nogo kolodjaz for zboru doshchovo ї drive glibinoju 4,5 m …. ”
At a hill foot to be a hotel complex, further road blocks an old rusty sign "brick" though we have disobeyed it and have left to base of rest (good road slag to base, the old killed stone blocks further upwards.). And here uvidili two tourists going down from above. Having thought that the lock still above potopali upwards. As we stamped both with what and what ways it is separate raskaz, but in minutes 40 left taki on a mountain edge. And there … … a small house of the forester. He to us also has told that, that the lock to be at base of rest, in metres 100. But have walked on wood:). Tired have gone down from a hill, have gone as the forester near base has told. And ….naplyv new forces, the lock though is half destroyed, but how much it is beautiful, and what kind on nearby plains opens, simply class!
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Having developed on ruins, and having had a bite at the car, the products reserved in advance have gone further. Now the following stop already in the Lvov area.
What not to speak, but nature Zakarpatja is so beautiful, that would not be desirable and to leave. Mountains, small rivers, woods, glades, the sky … all simply extremely beautiful ….vse in is juicy green colours of spring. Well here and boundary a post at a hill foot, further pass and more one post. We are met by the Lvov area. The following stop – Old Salt.
To be in Old Salt the Mihajlovsky church and the Country house "Anna", the Pjatnitsky church, alas second and third we and have not seen. The Mihajlovsky church is dated whether 1613 whether 1660, in different sources differently. To a church, on this place there was St. Anna's erected Kazimirom Great the chapel. In 1469 to a chapel have attached a wooden church. In 1648 the temple was burnt B.Hmelnitskogo's by Cossacks. Then in 1613 (1660) the stone church has been constructed. On August, 24th 1743 has been consecrated by Vaclav Serakovskim. Temple reorganisations were as and in 19 century. This hour a church to be in an emergency condition, though also some reconstruction jobs vedutsja.
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Further the road conducts us in Skleevku. Road at once I will make a reservation though on a map and is designated as with a firm covering, in real it is soil road, with all following consequences.
In Skleevke to be sacred Martin's church with a defensive tower-kolokolnej of 15-16 centuries. The interesting moment, that in a temple facade nahodjatsja kernels. Usually it testifies to inaccessibility of the given object, but obchno such it is possible to see on oboronitelnih constructions as in the Kamenetsko-Podolsk fortress or Belgorod-Dnestrovskoj. Inside a temple bogat an embroidery, all pictures all tables are decorated "rushnykami". By the way this village is switched on in a new popular route – "Roads Shvejka".
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Now we go to Old Salt.
On district Lvov we turn aside Ivan-Frankovska, and we go, further there will be a first index on old village, near a monument to the Red Army man. We pass this turn. As having gone mo to it it was necessary to go through all village on «the killed first coat». And povorachiavt the Old village of 1 km, like so is necessary on the second turn with the index. Then at once behind moving the lock opens to a look.
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Lock building has begun in 1642, but in B.Hmelnitskogo's 1648 armies have destroyed a fortress. Though it taki has been restored. And during the second Cossack campaign has sustained a siege of Cossacks, and in 1672 its Turks too could not grasp it. Further in the beginning 18 items Senjavsky, before approach of Swedes have transferred here an arsenal and have strengthened a fortress. Alas after 1731 the lock became the property Chartorijsky which not sledidi behind it. And completely the lock began to be scattered since 1809 when has passed to Pototsky's hands. Yes, even today lock walls are taken away by local residents. Here so we store history.
The fourth day of travel approaches to end, and on spending the night we have stopped in motel on district Lvov. 90 grn number, 10 parking. Kafeshka in motel.
Day the fifth.
On видноколі - сиві topol і,
Вітер At полі kolishe kovil
Шаблі j nabo ї kajdani j пістолі
Find fault to sink at mor і, speeches smutok і біль
Here the fifth, final day of a trip also has come. Forward!!! Now on the district we reach to trasy to Kiev and about a miracle, it taki zalotali!!!! There were holes, as from land mines in the winter. Now though and latka on latke, but road, at least before turn on podgortsi. So, snachalo Olesko, works whether with 11 whether with 12. We go further. pogortsi as always not reconstruction and round it to wander without problems. The lock in Zolocheve, as well as Olesky otkryvaetsja pozno. Is not present so is not present. All the same them saw. Ahead, where I wished to get one and a half year – podkamen.
And though to be in small town the monastery that towers on a hill and on one of versions it was based running of Kiev chentsy in 1234. I vnimae has been concentrated to a stone that lays on hill tops, near to the monastic.
Whence a stone.
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On a legend it was brought by the athlete, what in the future here to put a fortress for protection. Children who went near to a stone on a question as the grandmother tells about stone occurrence have told shortly. «chort приніс». There is a version for which in territory of today's Ukraine was Sarmatian (Miotsenovoe) the sea, and today's Tovty (Tovti or Medobory - rocky dugopodobnaja a ridge in length 250 km: from podkamenja to borders with Moldova, width about 15-20 km) it is the barrier reef consisting from membrannoporovyh and cherepashkovyh of limestones. Round a stone there are tombs of Cossacks, besides here there are still practically novel caves. And in addition to all from a stone it is visible the Pochaevsky Monastery – the following stop of our route. So impressions of a place (though we have not visited a monastery) remained the best.
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Further the Pochaevsky Monastery as on me ours, Kievo-Pecherskaja on beauty not to be compared to this architectural complex, caves, a belltower, greens, gold domes that shine on the sun. By the way from the Pochaevsky monastery I have seen a monastery in podkamne, and the stone too has beheld.
Now through Vishnevets, the lock in which has not so liked me, there is a reconstruction. To Ternopol, and further in Skalat. Alas, the weariness prevails, and we go already straight home, leaving Skalat on following time.
About 9 evenings already in Kiev, having reeled up for a trip of 2600 km. The trip has turned out excellent!
Ukra§no, Ukra§no!
Після далечі доріг
Вірне sertse tvogo sina
I put тобі to ніг.
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