DAY THE FIRST (07.07.07)
Let's begin with that in May of last year I have for the first time got in Zakarpate (the report on a trip it is possible to look here) and this slice of our Ukraine has subdued me. Therefore and this holiday it has been decided to spend in those edges. That we also have undertaken together with my liked.
The plan of our trip varied every day from planned, we will speak therefore where it has turned out to visit. So, in the gloomy morning, in Day of Ivan Kupal we were put forward in a way. Weather varied each half an hour, the gale was invariable only. At an entrance to Starokonstantinovu the sun and clearly shone, having stopped near Ostrovsky's lock, we nalegke have gone to study local sights. After survey of the lock, we have moved towards a Dominican church. Having had time to make pair of pictures, the downpour has rushed. And when we already, having been dripping wet, have reached the car, the rain has stopped and under the sun we changed clothes in dry clothes.
But, despite nature whims, we have gone further – aside Skalat. Congress aside Skalat goes near podvolochisk. Road awful – a hole on a hole, a pool on a pool. Slowly, but is confident we there have reached. Sight is the church of defensive type, and as four stone towers located a square. After that we have visited settlement Budanov where on a hill there are the lock rests which part has been reconstructed, in due course, under a church. Our machine could deduce us directly to a church, having overcome thus, as the steep slope suffices for the car.
Further our way laid in Buchach.
Unfortunately, the perfect town hall in Buchache is completely on restoration and is completely surrounded by building woods. To consider it it is simply impossible. But to our look has appeared the perfect Krestovozdvizhensky church executed in style of late baroque. Day approaches to end and it is time to conceive about parking. To our regret, all numbers of local hotel are occupied. And we decide to break the camp on road to tomorrow's first point – under JAzlovtsom.
Today's technologies allow to be completely independent in independence of gas or an electricity and consequently even spending the night in tent does not call any discomfort. Having made a supper on a torch, having loaded phones and the camera, we have gone to sleep.
DAY OF THE SECOND (08.07.07)
Having had breakfast, we have gone in JAzlovets then on foot to get on Rusilovsky falls. Rusilovsky falls are a cascade of falls of different size and height and each of them this surprising and unique natural phenomenon. Having left the car at the forester, we have gone to three hour pedestrian walk. Walk was under the motto: «Travel is easier or more interesting». Is a passage on the top track along all cascade of falls easier. To observe it is possible only from height. Is more interestingly to go from the bottom and to top on a channel of falls. It is valid the sea of emotions, impressions and photos.
The city of Galich became the second stop. During ancient times the Galitsky and Volynsk earths have been united also Galich becomes the centre of the hugest princedom. Today in Galichi there is a monument to prince Daniel Galitskomu, church of Christmas Christ's, and as an ancient castle which for today is completely reconstructed.
Then in our route there was a stop point in the village Starunja which history begins since XVIII century. In beginning HH research activity on oil search there begins. In 1907 Starunja to become known to all scientific world – in the earth find the rests of mammoths, rhinoceroses, the birds, which age about 23 thousand years. But not only it glorifies Old – as a result of earthquake in Romania there was a unique mud volcano, after earthquake in Italy – the second, after earthquake in Iran – four more. In due course rains have destroyed cones of volcanoes, but periodically from them gas, oil and water of various degree of a mineralization is thrown out. When we asked road at local to us said, that our machine there will not drive, that they there go only on "roverah" (as we have understood – on off-road cars), but our car and this obstacle has passed. And we have gone further.
And we have gone on Manjavu which is known for the man's monastery (the Manjavsky monastery) which, according to a legend, the monks running in 1240 from Kiev have put in pawn. Further it has been destroyed by the mangolo-Tatar hordes. Its revival has begun in 1908. In a dawn of its glory to a monastery submitted more than 500 orthodox monasteries of Poland, Moldova and Romania. In a monastery, according to the will, hetman Ivan Vygovsky is buried. In 1970th years a dilapidated monastery have decided to transform into a museum and have carried out reconstruction.
Except a monastery in Manjave the falls are known. To us at once said, that our car there will not drive – low planting, automobile – there were different reasons. But we already know that, on what we is capable "rover"! The road to falls was awful – disgusting holes, pools, stones. The huge pool became the first serious obstacle. We were confused with cars which have left before it. On different data on foot to falls it was necessary to go from 3 to 7 km. It was not on us. And we have decided to test rover further. A pool we have passed without problems that was astonishing for one of drivers of the left cars. There was a road even worse further. But ahead a new obstacle – the river. Let it is mountain small river, let it not deep, but it all the same the river! But also this test our car-rover has passed without problems. Then we have overcome its pair of moving of the river and have left the car in the dried up channel, whence to falls remains metres 200. The falls cost all our tortures and tortures of the car – deep, high, prompt. It is a lot of nafotografirovavshis we have gone to the place of spending the night – on sports base "Zarosljak" at bottom Goverly. Conditions of residing wish very much the best – numbers cold, the big dampness, is not present some hot water, it is better not to come into a toilet-bath at all. And on this base in couple of days there comes an Olympic team on struggle! Horror!
DAY THE THIRD (09.07.07)
Morning has begun with coffee preparation on a torch directly in number. Having had breakfast, we have gone to submit Goverlu, having run before it on station of biospheric reserve. Having gone down downwards, we have begun a ascension on Goverlu. If to you say, that lifting on Goverlu is easy walk – do not believe! The ascension has occupied from us three hours, it with stops, halts. Basically, it was possible to rise for two-two and a half. Lifting can be divided into 3 stages: the First the most long – lifting by wood, on roots, streams etc. Leaving wood, we appear at height about 1500 metres. The second stage – the most difficult, exhausting. It is a track on huge stones along which prickly bushes grow. The wind practically is not present also the sun starts to burn as in summer well. So we remove jackets and we drive trousers. It is surprising and pleasant, that on a slope is to steam of streamlets from which it is possible to satisfy thirst. The second stage comes to an end at height about 1800 metres with an exit on a plateau where us meets cold, penetrating a wind. Here to top there is an hour. Though the third part not so difficult, but forces spent for two last stages do not allow to go quickly. And nevertheless we have risen. There we were met by a surprising panorama of the Montenegro ridge, crowd of tourists and a mad wind. The mountain Popivan with an observatory on it, and absolutely near to us Petros in the distance is seen.
The ascension was remembered not only it is directly at top I has made liked the proposal and she has agreed. As well as it, I was very happy. And day became on July, 9th, 2007 for us especial.
Exhausted, but happy, we have begun descent downwards which has occupied about two hours.
For today it is all and we have gone to Ivano-Frankovsk where stop on spending the night in hotel "Надія". For 300 grn. It is possible to receive pleasant number made on the European standards. Besides, the breakfast enters into cost.
In the evening we have walked on a city. From hotel to the centre to go 5 minutes Had supper in a pizzeria directly near a town hall. The centre have made a foot zone, have very well restored. But it is necessary to depart on the nearest street as you are horrified by a dirt and wretchedness.
The hotel accommodation on has liked us so much, that we did not wish it to leave. But having had breakfast (to us the buffet has been offered) we have packed things and have continued our travel.
DAY THE FOURTH (10.07.07)
The falls Whisper in settlement Pilipets became the first stop of this day. Road to falls as always broken, to be exact the killed. Having overcome all holes we again rest against the river which should to the car be overcome. The basic part of cars has been left to the river. To me was essentially it to move. The river is deeper, than on Manjavsky falls. Accurately, but with a considerable quantity of splashes I have moved it and have called delight and admiration of all observing. The falls amaze with the capacity, force, and the main thing, beauty. The only thing that confuses are crowds of tourists which everywhere, everywhere and are not present from rescue.
As in Piliptse there is a wooden Mihajlovsky church which 300 years and recently was restavrirovana.
Further we go on lake Sinevir. The quantity of tourists can be estimated on a check point. People go by buses, cars, go on foot. The lake becomes very popular and knowingly, after all there it is madly beautiful. It to be at height about 1000 metres above sea level. It still name the Sea eye. Short survey and we go further because the considerable quantity of people does not allow to take pleasure in all beauty of lake completely.
But Very few people knows about the following stop is a dam on the river Terebovlja around village Olshany. The small small river turns to the hugest water basin which to be between mountains. All power water is constrained by a huge dam. The most interesting, that the HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION for which this water basin is made to be behind mountain where we and have gone. We approach directly on Terebljansko-Riksky HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION. Water on a pipe from a dam to HYDROELECTRIC POWER STATION overcomes distance of seven kilometres and the big pressure is created what to untwist three turbines, capacity each 1900 watt. Further water which has fulfilled the capacity, a huge stream runs into the river Rika.
Therefrom our way laid in a place of the following spending the night – Vinogradov. Have stopped in hotel with good number with the big bed for 150 grn., had supper in the nearest cafe and have fallen asleep sound sleep.
DAY THE FIFTH (11.07.07)
Having woken up early in the morning, hardly having come off a pillow, we have gone to go for a drive on local sight – narrow-gauge tramvajchik – some kind of a diesel electric train. Width if twice less, than the accepted European. It is a dying out type of transport and if in the nearest couple of years in it investments probably we will lose such wonder are not enclosed. Tramvajchik goes from Vinogradova in Irshavu with several stops. Time in a way – one hour ten minutes. Now we peacefully shiver in him with a speed of 20-30 km at an o'clock, surrounding people talk on local, not clear to us a dialect, and we consider in a window perfect landscapes – woods, fields, mountains.
Evening ….
But about incidents of the whole day to tell costs. Practically on an entrance to Irshave our narrow-gauge tramvajchik breaks also we with one more traveller from Ekaterinburg – Cашей – have gone back on ways home. All anything, but drew in us time – was nearby 10, and we to 12 should be moved from hotel. Ahead was about 15 km of a way home. Many times raised a hand in attempt to catch the car, but all was vain. Eventually, having passed one village, near us Zhigulis have stopped and have taken kilometres 5. To Vinogradova remains about 8 kilometres and on hours already was a floor 12. Quickly enough we have stopped the second car is there was an ambulance car which has taken us practically under hotel where we have run without five 12.
Densely having had dinner, we have gone in Beregovo where after walk we have left our new acquaintance from Ekaterinburg and have gone towards Uzhgorod. Poured a rain and there was no special desire to walk on the Mukachevsky lock. Have decided to visit him tomorrow. In Uzhgorod we have stopped at our relatives. Soon have gone to the pedestrian walk on a city. In this city the daddy of my bride has grown and she there happened often, so we walked on acquaintances to it to small streets. Already grew dark, we therefore have visited a little - the Cathedral Krestovozdvizhensky cathedral which has amazed me with the beauty, architecture, greatness. Then we have walked to the Uzhgorod lock. All museums inside have already been closed, so we have taken a walk only on territory.
Though day was and it is not so sated by places and events, all the same one of remarkable days of our holiday.
DAY OF THE SIXTH (12.07.07)
Since the morning it has been decided to go to the Mukachevsky lock and it was the correct decision – by 9-10 tourists more few and it is possible to walk freely on the lock. Small strengthening in Mukachevo where now to be the lock, already stood in X-XI a century. The modern kind has got the lock in second half XVII – the beginning of XVIII centuries. Then it was reconstructed by the French engineers. To the old top lock have attached top and bottom, each of them have been surrounded by walls and ditches. Today there seven cases of three unequal height palaces, bastions, casemates, an arsenal, three towers, a church, 85 metre well and other were saved. The lock is located on crossing of the roads conducting from Carpathians Mountains in Zakarpate. During times the lock belonged to princes Rakotsi and count Shenbernu.
After that it has been decided to go aside CHopa as one of the most western cities of Ukraine and on road to drop in in Solomonovo where there is factory "Europenalties" which makes krupnouzlovuju assemblage of cars Shkoda, Seat and Foltsvagen. Having seen and CHop, and factory the eyes, we come back on district Uzhgorod and we go towards Nevitsky. Romantic ruins of a medieval castle which to be on a hill, the attention at once draws. Besides, from them the kind on nearby villages opens. For the first time in documents the lock is mentioned in 1274. According to a legend it has received the name from word transformation "nevestsky" because during danger served as shelter djal women. The lock supervised road on Uzhogsky pass, and as exits to Poland and Galicia.
On vicinities our task is executed for today also we go to Uzhgorod to have dinner. For us in local pizzerias in wonder closed pizzas which are called kaltsone. It is to such itself "cheburek" filled inside all components of a pizza.
DAY SIXTH (CONTINUATION)
In the evening we have walked on a city – through the Post area on quay, the foot bridge, towards department store, and then to station. Was deep enough as for summer is consequences of rains. Not to be believed, that sometimes in the spring so spreads, that the foot bridge simply close. Taking a taxi, we have gone to a museum – korchmu «Detsa at notarja», known for much local, and the visitor. Korchma it is executed in the Ukrainian style with set of attributes, having pinned apropos «the Ukrainian mentality» etc. the Menu too is executed in an original way enough with interesting representation of dishes and other podkolami. The menu can be bought for memory, that we and have made. After a nourishing supper we have gone krepenko to sleep.
DAY OF THE SEVENTH (13.07.07)
Having had breakfast tasty cakes and fragrant coffee in a yesterday's pizzeria, we have gone aside Kolomyi through Rahov, having visited on road wooden churches for Hustom (it is necessary to notice, that indexes on architectural instructions roads are densely placed lengthways, that should please).
Hydrochloric caves in Solotvino were the further stop. To find caves, we had to go for a drive minutes twenty on clinics and in general vicinities while to us at last have not prompted where to us can lead excursion. If to go from Uzhgorod in front of the bridge there is a road to the right and we go to the thrown factory. As it has appeared, there and there are known hydrochloric caves. At present the lowermost circle of a cave where there is an extraction of food and technical salt, is flooded. And while water extort, extraction does not go. On depth of 300 metres to be in already fulfilled circle the branch of allergic hospital. Us for 30 grn from the person have lowered on depth of 380 metres (on 80 metres below a sea level). On this circle as extraction but as it is now temporarily suspended is still conducted. In the first hall we have seen underground lake is water from the bottom flooded circle which pump over here and then further upward. Passing further on huge hydrochloric caves (height about 5 metres). Salt everywhere – on the parties, from above, underfoot. We have got to a hall where jobs on salt extraction have just been stopped. The hall is a cave in height in 15-18 metres (such caves can reach height about 80 metres). There there was a car which extracts salt. It is by sight similar to the car from films «to Recollect all» and "Armageddon". Besides it is necessary to tell, that the temperature in a cave keeps +24 degrees identical all year long. And the further from ventilation, the it is more and more stuffy and it is heavier to breathe. We have not noticed, how time has flown by – excursion lasted about 30 minutes. And above we were met by the bright sun and new interesting places where we and have gone.
The Center of Europe became one of these places Geographical. Earlier anybody especially did not give it value, now this one more place of pilgrimage of tourists and to an earning on them (read us) money. Nearby have constructed restaurant, sell set of souvenirs. Further for us waited Kolomyja. Unfortunately already grew dark also a museum pysanky has been already closed. But we pofotografirovalis near it, near a town hall also have gone to hotel in Kosov.
DAY OF THE EIGHTH (14.07.07)
Lifting has been appointed to 5 mornings to visit the well-known Kosovan market where under very reasonable prices sell products local masters – hand-made articles from a tree, vyshivanki and other attributes of Huzuls. The market starts to work nearby 5 and finishes job to 8-9. Than earlier you will go – that you will more cheaply buy. After we have gone to Chernovtsy, a city which to be famous for the Chernovitsky state university, to be exact a building in which it to be, a town hall and «drunk church».
First of all we have found a city town hall which built long time and have put in operation on March, 20th, 1848. In due time the Austrian, Romanian monarchs and the Russian officials sat at a town hall. Nowadays on a town hall zhovto-blakitny a flag. The 50-metre tower of a town hall served not only for appearance, and was used and for advantage of a city. On a balcony, all city whence is visible, the fireman round the clock was on duty. And for a small payment all interested persons could on this balcony and admire beauty of a city.
Perpendicularly to a town hall there is an Art museum which amazes all with the beauty. A building poostreno in 1900-1901 and then the Management oshchadnogo bank there took places. To equal this building on beauty was not on all Austro-Hungarian empire. Practically under a roof we see a panel on which it is represented twelve gods of the Olympus are twelve most important provinces of empire. From a right edge we can see the goddess of productivity and hlebodelija TSetseru which symbolises Galichina. In the building after 1940 the Communist Party took places, and in 1990 a building have given to a regional museum.
The biggest pride of Chernovtsy is the Chernovitsky state university which was residence bukovinskih metropolitans earlier. The building was under construction almost 18 years and it became simple a masterpiece. It is possible to see synthesis of the Byzantian, Romance architecture, line Huzul and bukovinskih ornaments. With beauty amaze even corridors – a marble floor, lists on a ceiling and walls.
What to get on territory, we had to take a walk to steam of hours on a city – in University there passed entrance examinations and nobody was started up. But seen then costed to a waiting time.
University here have opened in 1875 and it has two taboos – not to smoke and not to go on a path from gravel in front of the main case – under it the special drainage system which deduces a superfluous moisture is hidden and to these interferes with destruction of bricks. University a place "polomnechestva" all newly-married couple, as the Kiev Sofia or Mihajlovsky church.
In expectation of time of the termination of examinations, we have decided to walk on foot to «drunk church» which to be on street Russian, near to a town hall. «Drunk church» this colloquial name of the Nikolaev cathedral constructed in 1939. The main attention involves the overwound columns of two small domes. There is an impression, that domes are inclined to the centre, though it not so. We have given to Chernovtsy, though it is not a lot of, but time as a result we all the same suffices we move further. Our following purpose was to find a place which we could not find in August of last year when went across Prikarpatye. It near to item subich where the river Studenitsa runs into Danube.
This time we have found this place easily enough – only one wrong turn last year has confused us. Accurately through fields we go down by the car directly to small river. The kind opens simply shaking. Hilly district on either side of the river. There we also stop with tent for the night. With fire wood of special problems is not present. Though the fire to us was only as a hobby as we prepared on a torch. Near to us fishermen floated, and nights some a floor suppressed fish. It is uncomfortable to become from mad silence which interrupts shrill shouts of birds and noise of their wings. But having got tired of the sated day we strong fall asleep.
DAY THE NINTH (15.07.07) FINAL
Having woken up and having had breakfast, we have begun lifting upwards. The car went easily enough. At top we have stopped what to make still pair of pictures and have continued a way towards the house. Not having driven and hundred metres at us the temperature of the engine to 130 degrees has sharply risen. We in misunderstanding called in service Foltsvagena and to us have told, that the pomp can be the reason. We went, stopping through each hundred metres. Having reached to a line, we have caught the car which has towed off us in Kamenets-Podolsk. Having arrived to a city, we have started to search for an autoshop and HUNDRED. Unfortunately, as it has appeared, on Sunday in a city works nothing. Attempts will phone on HUNDRED in Ternopol too have not given results. The variant was to reach to Ternopol or Khmelnitskiy, there to spend the night and to be repaired in the morning, but it did not approach us, as it was necessary to be at job in the morning. And we have decided to employ evakuator, that it would bring us to Kiev. Evakuator we have found quickly enough. To us has carried, and we were met by the owner who has given us the discount. The car have completely shipped, us have treated coffee and we have gone to a way. The road from Kamentsa to Kiev has occupied hardly more than 6 hours. Here our holiday and so has "fantastically ended. But we do not despair, because from travel we have brought the sea of emotions, photos, stories. And the more so, I went there with the girl, and have returned with the bride. The life proceeds! The life is perfect!