I have planned the autotravel even in the spring of 2006 and as a result gathering and studying of the information on trips on these countries in a Runet, the definitive route has been developed:
Gomel - Kiev - Odessa (spending the night) - Reni (spending the night) - Bucharest - Sozopol (sea tour) - Istanbul (2 spending the night) - Sozopol (spending the night) - Varna - Urzicheni (spending the night) - Sinai - Ryshnov - Bran - Brashov - Merkurja-Chuk (spending the night) - Suceava - Chernovtsy - Hotin - Kamenets-Podolsk - SHepetovka (spending the night) - Minsk
The general run has made 4350 km.
For the basic vacation spot has been chosen Sozopol. It is small resort small town in southern Bulgaria in 30 km. To the south from Burgas. Running forward, I can tell, that with a choice I obviously was not mistaken. Sozopol corresponded to those descriptions which it is a lot of in an Internet, and also to my developed expectations. Visas (Bulgarian and Romanian) have been received beforehand in the Minsk tour agency, room in private boarding house "Star" *** in Sozopole, in the street the Neptune, 7 in the same place has been reserved. Number price has pleased – 100 euros for 8 nights for two. In number two beds, a shower, a toilet, the TV, a refrigerator, a balcony. To the sea 100-150м. In agensve on the computer have shown photos – like anything. Except visas, in the same place have been issued medstrahovki, and also in the nearest insurance office «Green map» for 15 days, and also the Ukrainian insurance for 5 days.
I began the travel not from Minsk in which I live constantly, and from Gomel where I took last business trip before holiday. These are 320 km in a southern direction from Minsk. Having been going to and having unloaded all things in the car, I have gone to Gomel, whence at night from 07.09.06 on 08.09.06 we and have gone to a way. We are I and my girl of Light who has arrived to Gomel by train. So, …
08.09.06, Friday
03.00 - I Stand on platform of the Gomel station, I meet a train Minsk-Mariupol which arrives at 3-17. I have already woken up, have handed over number and have taken away the car from parking though has woken up, it is loudly told. The day before having tried to lay down at 19-00, it is visible with overflowing feelings before a trip, practically and has not fallen asleep, having dozed from force two hours. And it not so by the way before a stage in 800 km.
My car Reno Megan Stsenik of 1998 of century, 1,6i gas-gasoline. Before a trip has made to it put THAT and very much hoped for the French car industry.
Having met, not losing time, at once we go to a way. For this day we should reach Odessa where should arrive somewhere by 14-00. To border with Ukraine – driving half an hour. Directly before transition to us the road is run across by a fox. Having solved, what is it on good luck, we move further. On the transition, I do not stop at a box with the frontier guard who gives out migratory maps. I in night have not seen a sign on feet, and is independent on the car border did not cross for a long time already. Runs out pogranets, and says, that I have made "break" through state border of Ukraine etc., etc. And also, that it to declare compelled on a portable radio set operation "capture" of the infringer of state border. I do not remember, about what penalty there was a speech, remember only that for it arrest is put also, with the subsequent imprisonment. Having found out requirement of the client?, i.e. pograntsa, have converged that I am guilty and for it I will give to it of a few money, to be exact 3USD. As a result both of us remained are happy. Further border we have passed quickly and without excesses, and also without any gathering and requisitions. By the way, for departure to Ukraine the insurance which costs 5 euros for 5 days in case of transit is required only. Any ecology and gathering for roads. Though from 10.09.06 in case of crossing of territory of Ukraine by transit registration of time import cars what we have faced on road back has been entered.
Further we move through Chernigov to Kiev. Directly in front of Kiev we are stopped by an Ukrainian language as it seemed to me, not having got used yet them to distinguish, the GAI officer. Has looked narrowly, and it is an ecologist. Heard from many about it, now it was convinced on own experience – to pay, as well as to stop under their requirement it is possible at will?. He wanted for journey 80 grn., a pier I give a piece of paper, you save till the end of a trip (following to me has by all means told, that this piece of paper operated just to this place etc.). I, as well as advised, has told, that I will not pay since it is not obliged and has led myself confidently, it has discouraged it, anything distinct he to me in the answer has not told, has given documents, and we have gone further.
To Kiev it is arrived somewhere at 7-30 and we get at an o'clock, fortunately we have avoided serious stoppers. Having a little twisted on a city, we, at last, get on departure in the Odessa direction.
The road from Kiev to Odessa was pleasant, repair needs to be finished only on an entrance to Odessa. And so, good enough road, in two strips in one party. Near Kiev many gas refuellings, refuel on 2,7 grn. Further gas refuellings becomes ever less, and in their Odessa area it is not enough absolutely. Near Odessa have refuelled on 2,9 grn. On a line it is a lot of GAI officers with a radar, passers blink. But as a result all of us have got. Having stopped before Hadzhibejsky estuary and pofotkavshis on its background, we have a seat in the car, we pass estuary and there and then stop. Here restriction 70, and at me – 95. Has as a result given 20 grn. Without the receipt, at put 53 grn., that to the Belarus measures (in sense to penalties) very little, have agreed willingly. In general in Ukraine at foreign citizens for insignificant infringements documents Guys, Dai or as they now there correctly are called, the rights cannot take away, and can make only the report and send on a residence so the choice at them was not big.
To Odessa profits under the schedule, at 14-00, thus half an hour has lost in Umani, in search of an exchanger.
In Odessa it is a lot of hotels, but it is a lot of and expensive from 50$ and above. In a range 20-30$ it is not enough of those. Through is not present has found out, that to criteria it is inexpensive and in the centre, hotel "Passage" that is direct on Deribasovsky answers. "Passage" reached long enough, turning on the central paved small streets with an one-way traffic. In "Passage" it was found out, that places are, and hot water is not present. Have decided to go to reserve hotel "áßÔÓ«", that on the Nikolaev road. Numbers at all have not impressed us, but in hotel we were going to only a little to have a sleep, and for this purpose it was a suitable variant. The person occupying us was absolutely inadequate, in a condition of any intoxication, in my opinion, even not alcoholic, as a result we took number of lower category, having paid for higher. It is possible to put the car directly in a hotel court yard, it is a court yard certain metallobazy more correctly. But all this economy is directly on seacoast. From hotel to the centre of Odessa – 15-20 minutes On marshrutke.
In the evening we proceeded on foot all centre, have gone down on the Potemkinsky ladder in port, have walked on quay.
09.09.06, Saturday
Next day having slept off, have visited a zoo, market "Supply" for the purpose of deeper sensation of local colour, have once again walked on the centre, on Deribasovsky and nearby 15-00 have taken away the car and have moved aside Reni, that on border with Moldova and Romania. This day it was necessary for us to overcome distance in 280 km. Road tolerable enough. Along the line you pass the Moldavian village Palanka where there is no customs, but hand over a card of journey which you hand over on departure (through 1,5 km).
We have planned the route in a detour of Moldova, but first of all because of absence of time since visiting of Kishinev did not keep within in any way the schedule. Besides, the journey question through PMR has not been studied. We went to Izmail, and then on Reni. In Izmail have visited the centre, a marina and quay of Danube on which opposite coast already there was Romania in which we should appear tomorrow at a dawn. The road site between Izmail and Reni, especially along Danube, from village Orlovka is enough bad. The fence from a barbed wire on a left-hand side of our movement – at the left was remembered, is direct behind a roadside – a bush, Danube and all it - already Romania. Passing these places, it was recollected, how, collecting the information to a trip, read how in 1940 at delimitation of borders between Moldova and Ukraine, at education MSSR, to Ukraine districts of Bessarabia Hotin, Izmail and Akkerman (nowadays Belgorod-Dnestrovsky), occupied on that moment mainly Moldavians have departed. And so sometimes, passing on the south of present Odessa area of Ukraine, the atypical architecture for these places, more similar that in a consequence we saw in Romania (for example was evident, variety has sat down after place Sarata).
In Reni we have arrived nearby 20-00. On road to Reni gas refuellings a little. Have refuelled somewhere in area Tatarbunary. In most Reni gas refuelling is, but on base rajgaza, works only on weekdays, hours to five. On entrance to the city of Gotel "Seagull", number 120 grn. For a two. I refuel in Reni gasoline against the stop. In the street near our car the car stops: «Byelorussians? What destinies etc., etc.» Tone very much even benevolent, the person has been really surprised, having met us here, it is visible, that ours here will meet infrequently. It has appeared, that at this guy mother lives in Vitebsk, and it just has returned therefrom where stayed with it. It is a little having communicated, have left, having asked road to customs. Then have sat in summer cafe. Warm evening, silence, from the next little tables reaches speech in an Ukrainian language, Russian, Romanian, Gipsy … Cosy, silent small town on a joint of three states. But tomorrow very early lifting, therefore to sit up long, unfortunately, it is impossible. What to do, but such schedule I have made itself, trying to squeeze out of a route a maximum. For a tomorrow we should cross three borders (Moldova, Romania and Bulgaria), and under plans to be at 9-30 in Bucharest. In Bucharest we were going to to spend time till a dinner, and, having left it at 13-30 – 14-00, by the evening to reach to Sozopolja during reasonable time and to be occupied in number.
10.09.06, Sunday
Lifting at 4-20, twenty minutes on gathering and in a way. We pass Reni, there is it more, than it seemed to me, there is even a central area. Reni it is seaport on Danube, from here even one time the ferry went to Istanbul. After Reni to steam of kilometres of quite good road and we rest against frontier transition with a flag of independent Moldova. Now we should pass 800 metres of territory of this state. Yes, so. On a way to Romania, in road a wedge Moldova runs, it posesses settlement Dzhjurdzhjulesht which remains aside and the transition with the same name (if to look at a map more in detail, it becomes clear).
Here we absolutely one, minutes through 5 I leave the car and I start to attract attention. There is a frontier guard, suggests to pass in a premise. For journey to me suggest to pay (for roads and ecology) 15$. All officially and under the table – from citizens of Ukraine of 5$, Belarus 15$. I offer 5$ - a little, 10$ - OK. Still any gathering in 2$. Like and it is a lot of for such site, but it already the earth of other state also it is possible to move further on all territory of Moldova. So all is clear. I leave, and the frontier guard all turns at the car, something searches. Where the serial number of the car which has been beaten out on a body? Has begun, and I about it have forgotten absolutely. The matter is that I drove this car from Lithuania. Then at me too searched for this number, yes and have found. There is only a tablet on a rack, between dvermi on the right side, and on a body is not present. Even in Minsk our harmful customs and Guys put on the account on it. It was then found out, that in Stsenikah this number is beaten out around a niche under zapasku, and at me there a cylinder gas, screwed in tightly. I speak, is not present at me, there is only a tablet. Should be. Search. Even minutes ten, and it surrenders, happy journey. We pass no more than 1 km, again customs, departure from Moldova. We get on peresmenku, to wait about a half an hour. Here we already at all one, even small turn before a barrier, basically Romanians and Moldavians. Here there are two cafes in which it is possible to pay in any money, and face value is more favourable at what less. Had a drink coffee with cakes for grivnas. peresmenka has ended also we again at customs. The pleasant woman asks to pay again gathering in 15$, and the receipt on payment of that gathering at me is not present, I so paid, though it it and did not interest. Mood in norm, I smile, I speak, on a return way I will begin to cry only to you, I can present a bottle of the Belarus vodka, it refuses flatly, gives passports, chao! At the Moldavian customs have lost about an hour, basically for the bill peresmenki.
At the Romanian customs at once it is approached on a box of payment of ecological gathering, 11$, all under the receipt. The problem – even here at once begins, on this border practically do not understand in Russian, the woman in a box - in general, a zero. At the Romanian customs of cars already it is more, but as a whole not so much. We pay a vignette (a payment for roads) – 4$. To take it it is necessary, though on it strongly do not insist. For absence of a vignette penalties very big if you will be stopped by a traffic police. I knew it under reports of other travellers. Customs officers affable enough as there was it were unique benevolent Romanians-customs officers on my way. Searches of number of a body avto, this time with attraction almost all man's personnel of customs again begin. Without results. Most of all I was afraid, that me will force to remove a cylinder. Fortunately, all has managed, yes anybody and did not know where it, and I did not admit. Time for all leaves – a maximum hour, all of us in Romania.
Departure from customs, already behind the bridge which territory of Romania, us stop (probably, it there was a traffic police). Check of documents, once again open a luggage carrier – we say the password "tourist" and «the personnel luggage», OK, chao.
The road from customs deduces on the central street of Galatz, the city only has woken up and on the sly revives. Further we follow descriptions of departure from Galatz aside Breily MishiBG www.bgreal.ru
All the same it is a little krutanulis, but further all is clear. In Breile wished to change money, but has decided, that else too early morning and I will change further. At once I wish to tell what to change it is necessary let a little, but at customs. Since in small and average cities of exchangers not so it is a lot of, and we have driven besides to Romania on Sunday. I find departure on road E577 on Sloboziju. This road it is possible to tell excellent, the truth not the wide. Movement not big, vehicles and tilt carts (meet less often) are stirred only. Around continuous fields with faded sunflowers and corn. Landscapes are similar for the Odessa area, flat Romania and Bulgaria. In Slobozii I try to find an exchanger, but all banks are closed, has found an exchanger-automatic machine, but it to swallow dollars in any way did not want. Probably, it too had a day off. Have approached on gas refuelling, on the offer to fill me for dollars, even resolute refusal, the Romanian even razvorchalas to us following has on beneficial terms received. On the following refuelling, let is little bit more benevolent, but too refusal. Everything, we decide to move to Bucharest and to change there, but it is necessary to scorch petrol NZ but what to do.
The prices for fuel in Romania – gas 1,75 RON, gasoline 3,3-3,5 RON. In Romania the big network of refuellings Lukoil, and in Bulgaria they simply dominate. With gas refuellings of problems is not present, both in Romania, and in their Bulgaria it is enough. Especially in Bulgaria, practically on each refuelling there is also a gas.
From Slobozii we leave on road 21 as it has appeared. And were going to on Е60. When have understood, have decided not to come back, and to go to road 3А. In my atlas, dated 2005г., the under construction high-speed road Bucharest-Constance is specified still. On an entrance to a required crossroads I pay attention to indexes «ahead congress on a highway to Bucharest». Aha, means, it is already opened! I decide to go on it since we get off from the schedule, too much time is lost, though I know nothing about a fare on it. It for certain the paid. We leave, the road represents European avtoban a high class. Through 5 organised points of rest everyone kilometres, WC and all affairs. Waited, when there will be a point of payment for road, but fortunately has not waited, there was no it! Bucharest have reached the moment. And at once we leave on the district. It has appeared very narrow (1 strip in 1 party) and loaded. After Bucharest our way should lay on Dzhurdzhu where there is a frontier transition in Ruse, Bulgaria. Therefore we decide to go on a ring of Bucharest to a corresponding fork, and then from that arrival to drive in a city. On a ring went long enough, then to a city. Everywhere repairs of roads, vanity any. Only has relaxed, has decided to have a rest from it. On road we notice an exchanger, I change money on 2,6. Though a normal course 2,7-2,8 RON for 1$. We go to the centre, we stop in a suitable place first of all to buy a map. But anything such where they would be on sale, we can not find. Resembled, have wandered, pofotografirovalis and have gone further to the centre. While went, I notice an exchanger with a course 2,75. I decide to change still that on a way back has sufficed. As a result I change 50 more $, but at the rate of 2,3 instead of the declared. On a question, what is it, speaks in Romanian, shows on figure 2,3 written somewhere sideways. In general usual Romanian divorce. The check is already punched, the fat man-security guard (and he is in such points which are engaged in such affairs) already looks in our party. Has consoled itself in thought that has not changed 100$. A map have found in any bookshop in transition. In tsenre still there is an avenue of dealers old books. They too have maps. Too the old.
I knew about Bucharest a little. Has decided to find «Palato di Parlamento», approximately so the second-large building in the world after the Pentagon, constructed CHaushesku is called. Have asked, I it have named «Palaso CHaushesku», me have understood and have shown road. CHaushesku suffered a gigantomania, has taken down in historical city centre the big site of building and has erected this clumsy palace with an asymmetrical eminence on the left side. There is this economy in an open country, though around everywhere dense building. In general, the dictator also is the dictator, good from them it is not enough. In general in the centre of Bucharest to look there is that, an architecture beautiful enough, as historical to which has less, and modern. pofotkavshis against a sarcophagus, we go from a field by quarters, and here, by transfer each other fotika, we tsifrovik falls on sidewalk and … the zoom does not call in any more, the device does not photograph, but only shows already saved on fleshke pictures. Everything, have come. Moods any, and time already draws in. Have solved acquaintance to Bucharest on it to finish. Were drove once again on the centre, and on departure.
To border completely not far, kilometres 70. On an entrance to transition gas refuelling, I decide to refuel gas against the stop though refuelled in Bucharest and should enter very little. Zapravshchik fills, the counter shows 10,12 pour, I give 15. Zapravshchik speaks OK supposedly it enough and leaves. To speak with Romanians it is impossible. They except as on the do not understand, or a kind do. As a result I on a fuel minute quantity overpay 2$ (and at my personal course even moreover). Well not to run behind it. Good, a horse-radish with it, but very much it is not pleasant. Before was still, such episode, has decided to take with itself to Bulgaria the Romanian beer. On refuelling in a minimarket I take 4 bottles in cost 2 lei everyone. I give 8 pour, the saleswoman shows, give 2 more. To Have a talk with her it is not possible, it is easier to give, well and has given. Before read about Romanians - about constants zavyshenijah bills in cafe and restaurants. And here has faced here the such. Unpleasantly, well it is simple very much. Any tsyganshchinoj gives.
Good, moods and so any, I decide to get to Bulgaria faster. From refuelling two ways to the terminal. More to the right a box, three Romanians hands wave, call up, here supposedly here. I approach, speak money give, 38 pour. I show them the receipt on gathering payment in Galatz, a vignette, the visa which 40$ stands up for 5 days of transit. No, speak, it is not necessary, money give. It starts to get me. I have a seat in the car and I get the motor. Have time to close a barrier. And something shout on the. Who they such I in general cannot understand, since it at all customs territory. They spoke something about transit, but for what I should pay I and have not understood. I offer them of 5$, a little, as a result I without a spirit already completely, am literally vsuchivaju it 10$. I leave, metres through 200 the customs begins. I pass all posts, passport control, to us put stamps about departure from Romania. All decently, and here in last box to me give a paper, I should pay 45 pour and 6 euros. Lei for ecology, euro for the bridge. I lose patience, I start to show papers about payment from Galatz, to say, that in that box already paid, all on a drum. Money give also all here. And only lei and only euro. To offer tried less, in any. Change speak. And where? And there also show on the next window in the terminal. There the Romanian asks for 6 euros of 9 dollars. At a course for that moment 1,26. I try to explain to it, what is it it is a lot of, it starts to lament in Romanian and Russian forgets at all. I throw to it 10$, I take away euro and I leave. The mood already such, that would not be desirable delivery. It would be desirable faster from to get out here. To crying money, instead of the number prihodno-cash receipt gives me raspechatannyj on the printer a leaflet and sets on him the seal. During that moment very much it wanted to get with this piece of paper to the Romanian embassy. The barrier rises, and I with proslipping leave this hospitable country to transit tourists. As a whole for journey across Romania in a direction there, I compensated losses of the Romanian ecology approximately on 55$, not considering visas. In general, Gipsy blood in them is, as do not twist.
All this picture has reminded me a final episode of the novel «Gold calf» in which, going in Rio de ZHanejro, Ostap Bendery crossed the Romanian border. Well in what Romanians with shouts «About, branzuletka!», have started it to plunder. In this situation, I felt almost on place Ostapa. At least, Romanians were very similar.
I drive to Bulgaria, the customs officer welcomes me and – it is possible to relax, here all speak Russian. At once I ask, what I should pay here? Only a vignette, have sold to me fortnight for 11$, I am more in Bulgaria for roads did not pay, and journey through a pool – disinfection – 2 euros. I have told to it, that their neighbours gather tourists, it in a course. Says, that frequently there remove on 50 euros from the car, all know it, but anybody does nothing. On transition Dzhurdzhu-Ruse contrast between Romanians and Bulgarians, in respect of goodwill, has seemed to me very strong. Customs empty, quickly all I pay, to us put stamps and everything, forward on rest. From the experience of a trip across Romania, I can tell, that on other transitions where I could visit, such, as in Dzhurdzhu, no so on-possibility better this wonderful place to go round. Though from Bucharest to coast of Bulgaria it is unique correct road but as it has appeared, expensive enough.
In Bulgaria have left on line Е70, under indexes to Varna. Though these indexes are not absolutely clear. Have not gone nearly to Sofia. Through Razgrad, Shumen, have left on a line №73. Beyond Shumen the mountain site first on our way begins. Low, but streamers it is a lot of mountain. This road though it is allocated in the atlas fat, has appeared awful. Holes and potholes, and here also has definitively darkened. At last have left on line Е773, in a local way №6. The road became normal. In Burgas not stopping, without special work have found departure on Sozopol (indexes enough). Further on line Е87 have quickly reached quickly to Sozopolja. In Sozopol have arrived nearby 20-30. The problem had appeared to find street the Neptune, even on a map which to me have given out in agency in Minsk. Old Sozopol represents an artful design of small curve paved small streets, besides on houses often there are no numbers and names of streets. On our house of number was not. The owner, him called Nikolay, has told, that waited for us still during the lunchtime and thought, that we will not arrive any more, has occupied us in number, and then spent me before parking. Parking worked even three days, and then was closed, since the season in Sozopole came to an end, and cars was a little. So the remained days I put the car near the house, hardly entering it in a small street and leaving possibility for journey of other cars. This eventful day has ended, in the evening we still even had time to walk a little on a city and were very glad, that on the near future our travelling has ended.
Rest. 11.09.06 Monday – 16.09.06 Saturday
Our number has surpassed our expectations and I can tell, that on a parity the price-quality it was very inexpensive. All was new, accurate. The house costs in the centre, between new and old Sozopolem, being in its old, historical part. To a beach of 3 minutes on foot. A little to us has not carried with weather, it was not cold, but also it is not hot. But on our beach there was a wind and big enough wave. Further we went, or went on foot on an unorganized beach, at entrance to a city. There in small zalivchike even at a strong wind of waves practically is not present. On Monday have gone to Burgas where in gipere networks "Underground" has bought new tsifrovik. The price by the way very comprehensible. Then have gone in nesebr. It something is similar on Sozopol, the same narrow, curve small streets. nesebr is a tourist centre, continuous small restaurants and souvenir benches. The prices for souvenirs, it is possible to tell cheap, is not more expensive sozopolskih. Expensive enough parkings. In Sozopole on parking I paid a day 5 Levov. In nesebre the hourly parking – 2,5 Is left/hour. A course of 1$ = 1,5 It is left. Also have called in in Solar Coast. Have walked on territory, basically it is not bad, but in Sozopole is more picturesque.
Further days of quiet rest were pulled. Cafe-beach-cafe-number-evening prgulki on a city. Ate, first in various cafes, and then, having understood, that all here is approximately identical, have stopped a choice on one of them, with a traditional Bulgarian cuisine. priemlimye, but in Sozopole to us it was not possible to see the prices of those huge portions about which tourists speak. Not that very much it would be desirable, but all the same.
For time spent in Sozopole, have still made an excursion trip to Burgas where have taken a walk on an old city, quay. Having stopped the choice on one of street cafes, have reserved the big pizza, on salad and beer. Here here we also have been surprised, salads have brought in plates-tazikah. The serving size – Was 400-500 in the menu salad under the name "for two". The Serving size – 1кг. Salads traditional Bulgarian – shopsky, etc. Should tell what to eat it difficult enough, in sense it is a lot of very much. And the prices usual, same as in Sozopole, but the portion has more than time in two. In Bulgaria very cheap beer. European grades of type spilt in Bulgaria «Stela artua», "Karlsberg", "Tuborg" and t.p in "Underground" stand an order 1 Lv. The Bulgarian grades "Kamenitsa", etc. – an order 0,7-0,8 Lv. In cafe – only the Bulgarian beer, an order 1,2 Lv. Wine does not cost much also.
Weather was windy. Fairly to tell, in Sozopole I have a little started missing. All the same numbers since September, 15th the season in Bulgaria comes to an end. On a beach the people have not enough, the small town became empty every day, that basically for fans of quiet family rest undoubtedly is advantage. And all it has called me in road. As a result, not having extracted one paid day in Sozopole and having agreed with Nikolay, about one lodging for the night after returning, we have decided 17.09 to go on Sunday to Istanbul. When Nikolay has learnt, that I was going to to go to Istanbul by the car it have been very surprised and tried to dissuade me. Say, Istanbul a huge city, it there was two times by the bus and by the car for what would not go. I should tell in what that minute pokalebalsja, but the alternative the person was not. Two-day round to Istanbul costs an order 100$, thus, since I to Bulgaria have arrived by the car to leave it I also should not to her. I.e. I should go for turavtobusom by the car, to leave on it to Turkey, to pay at customs parking (5 euros a day) and then to embus. It was expensive also me did not approach, since to Istanbul I was going to for 3 days.
17.09.06, Sunday
At 7-00 we have left from Sozopolja. Nikolay very much did not advise to us to go on road of the leader on coast on the south from Sozopolja through Primorsko and TSarevo (Е87), has told that it very bad (though on a map it is noted "fat"). To go has offered on the road designated under №98 and going through mountains (they in this district not high) to Malko Tyrnovo where there is a transition to Turkey. It konchno has called my big surprise since judging by all atlases it is the basic road conducting from east Bulgaria to Turkey and besides it is direct continuation of the line going from the north, through Varna, Burgas, very quite good line.
Nikolay went in shop tours and was just in area Laleli where there are shuttle trading quarters and many inexpensive hotels. It is not far from the centre, area Sultanahmet where the Blue mosque and Ajja Sofia is located. Practically all that I knew it. The unique orientation made Nikolay was that unique in Istanbul the tram route there goes. The plan was standard – to drive in a city, to stop at the first booth and to buy a map.
To Malko road Tyrnovo narrow, especially good it you will not name. Before entrance to Turkey I decide to refuel against the stop gas. In Malko Tyrnovo there is a gas refuelling, the price on it of 1,1 Lv/litre. As I already wrote, in Bulgaria almost on each refuelling there is a gas, the price for that moment 1,01 Lv for litre of gas and 1,6 Lv – gasoline. Later, already after returning from Turkey, the prices have risen (literally for some days) and gas already did not cost anywhere less than 1,05 Lv.
At the Bulgarian customs of cars few, there are also no requisitions, benevolent Bulgarians check a vignette (besides documents naturally) and everything, ezzhaj! We drive on a Turkish side. Here meal on marking arrows, all in attention, I go round a customs building on the other hand, I doubt, whether correctly I have gone (since customs that like have driven), but on arrows I approach on a box similar to the exit. Indeed. The Turk looks my passport, anything in him does not find, then looks with astonishment at me. In Turkish to me explains, that in the beginning I should visit customs. Apprx. In customs we pay only visas-stamps (20$), and also send me with the log to register the car. All quickly enough, on the car put a separate stamp, money for what do not take, and like all. I leave. And roads where to pay? Probably in that box. I approach, again looks my documents, opens a barrier, ezzhaj! And a vignette? I start to explain in the English to it, at it with English is even worse, looks at me, does not understand that I want from it, and I to it a vignette, a vignette. From the party it was looked funny enough?. In general, there are at a Turk no ecology, vignettes. All is the Romanian features.
From customs we are deduced by a streamer going in one plane, but with extreme quantity of zigzags. In this frontier part Turkey is occupied a little. Very rare phenomenon for Turkey. Soon, for settlements Derekyoj, we stop to have a bite. I turn off from road on a soil path, and we appear in very cosy place near a source which it is a lot of across all Turkey. Fur-tree and deciduous coppices, and also rocks acting from the earth. Very beautifully, and round anybody.
Further the way is held on Babaeski. It decided to go there on free road since it would be desirable to look more. Is also parallel paid avtoban, to jump out on which it is possible at any moment. Besides I again have not changed at customs of money. Very much surprises gasoline cost (and gas too). Gasoline litre – an order 3,3 – 3,4 YTL, gas – 1,7 YTL (is more expensive, than gasoline in Bulgaria).
From Babaesok towards Istanbul movement becomes very dense. Road are continuous settlements and infinite cotton-mills. Here where all of them sew it! Sometimes even had time to notice familiar names of Turkish stamps of clothes. Building even more densely, movement too becomes closer to Istanbul. It is a lot of lorries, and today Sunday. In front of Istanbul the road goes on coast of sea of Marmara, beautifully, but all so is built up, that it is not always looked through. We drive to Istanbul though the sign has appeared kilometres 10 later there was a suburb. We get on mnogopolosnyj avtoban from which all forks and doublers leave. We go where to turn off absolutely not clearly. Signs suffices, but either Sultanahmeta, nor Laleli on them is not present. We go long enough, we get to a stopper, fortunately not for a long time. We move on main all time directly. As a result we leave on the bridge. I have accepted it for the bridge through Bosporus and have decided, that we have called in to Asia. As it has then appeared, it was the bridge through the Gold Horn. On the following fork I am developed, I go back. It is necessary to move down somewhere, already on a movement course on the left. I see a sign on Aksaraj. It too in that direction. Reference points I have chosen the wrong. The areas specified by me are not the cores, and as though subdistricts. Correct reference points Fatih, Aksaraj, Eminyonju. We turn off, we get on the big prospectus. Here already there are no doublers and at desire it is possible to stop. I go long enough. I look around for a booth with maps, through some km I find, I pass forward, there is a pocket, was hardly thrust. Hurrah! A map I buy, there are 4$, a map in Russian, dollars take without questions. And here I notice at the left tram ways. Means we nearby. As it has appeared, it already was the street the Horde. On a parking I was clamped by any Turk, cannot leave. I ask to drive off, but he does not understand me and instead allow to order cheerfully where me wheel to twist, has left, minutes five backwards-forward.
On a map I do not find area Laleli, the mosque with the same name is designated only. I pass forward, along trams. And as a result, not having considered scale, I pass everything, that only it is possible and I approach on a sign a brick, further only the tram goes. And minarets of the Blue mosque already look at me. The boy a Turk invites on a parking. Be developed here I cannot, and Turks, on tram ways forward, under a brick go, only in a way. Well and I behind them, the truth not far, am developed and come back, on purpose to find hotel as it is possible more close from this place. As a result with Yeniceriler caddesi (Janycharsky street??), I wish to curtail on Tiyatro caddesi (Theatrical?) But I turn off on next Mithatpasha caddesi. Here perpendicular kvartalchiki with old building. Small hotels continually. The area is called Bejazit. We start to look. Basically poor enough, but it is not expensive. From 15$ for a two without conveniences in number to 50$ for quite good number **. Have as a result decided to stop on number for 30$, not conceding to those that for 50$. The hotel is called Oscar, is on Mithatpasha caddesi, Efendi Sok. №6, Beyazit. Is directly opposite to the Istanbul University and the Big market. Here there was an amusing episode – when we looked number in this hotel, to us have shown number on 5 floor a balcony and a kind to sea of Marmara, looked through through roofs. When we have returned and have paid off, to us have furnished the clue from number on the third floor without a balcony. I have demanded that number, that I looked, but have declared, that it have already handed over. Though has passed minutes 10. In general, we have received number on 4th floor with a balcony, but the sea is not so visible, it is closed by roofs. Turkish features, this number at them unique, the sea whence is visible. It surrenders the last. And before it to all show. The parking has appeared nearby, payment there hourly, days stand 10 YTL. A course of 1$ - 1,44 YTL.
Having occupied, we have gone at once in Sultanahmet. On foot minutes 7-10. This day we have visited the Blue mosque, Ajju Sofia, have walked along palace topkapi to station Sirkechi where there arrived legendary East express train earlier. There arrive there trains from Europe and today. Have walked on the Galatsky bridge through the Gold Horn. Directly on the bridge small restaurants, pathos and it is obvious very much not the cheap. The Turk invites to come. I refuse, the pier ate recently, he asks, when depart? Come supposedly tomorrow. When I have told to it, what I have arrived by the car, he has not believed, but after the second assurance it hatched on me – from Russia? You crazy! And the beginnings on Turkish to tell the that I rashen krezi. About Belarus I to it of anything to tell did not become, it and so was in a shock. Russia is far in concept of Turks. Also this day we have visited on the area before the Blue mosque where there was a Constantinople hippodrome earlier and ancient obelisks were saved.
18.09.06, Monday
Next morning we have gone on landing stage Eminyonju, whence every morning somewhere across Bosporus, to fishing small village Kavagi on the Asian coast, located at an exit of Bosporus the boat at 10-00 goes to Black sea, with stops on a movement course. This trip occupies almost all the day, back the boat stays somewhere at 16-00. As far as I know yet so a long time it was a Turkish transport route, but in process of increase quantity of tourists, it has turned in purely tourist. At least from a Turk on him there was only a command and guides. And the boat has been hammered by Americans and Germans. The boat enough big, is contained by the person 200, not less. There is this action only 10 YTL, absolutely anything to the Istanbul measures. It is necessary to tell that all there nedeshevo. For example, journey by a tram costs 1$. The boat goes upwards across Bosporus, in Kavagi does a stop of hour on three (on pleasure to owners of the numerous small restaurants adjusted here and souvenir benches). For this time it is possible to visit the old Genoa fortress located on a grief over Kavagi, very beautiful kind on an input of Bosporus to Black sea whence opens. On each side this input from the European and Asian part there are two beacons. Across Bosporus there is a continuous stream of boats, boats, steam-ships, tankers, dry-cargo ships and other courts and little crafts. Read, that on pass across Bosporus there is a turn which vessels wait enough long.
On a return way, we left earlier, not reaching to Eminenju, in area Beshiktash, at palace Dolmabahche. From here on foot we have reached area Taksim which is considered as one of city centres. And further on foot and superbrisk street Istiklal, have gone down to the Galatsky tower. Lifting on a tower costs 10 YTL, as well as visiting Aji of Sofia. The street Istiklal is the centre of the European life of Istanbul of 19 centuries, brilliant the Feather as named it then. It was also the centre of Russian emigration, the restaurants opened by Russian were saved. Also have driven on the old Istanbul underground, it still name the dwarfish underground. It is such carriage which on an underground tunnel lowers you to the Gold Horn. Stations only two, the first landing, second final. Like as the cable car, but under the earth, officially is called as the underground. Then on the Galatsky bridge, have returned on Eminenju, and then by a tram have reached hotel.
By the way, I and have not understood, journey is paid for what principle to a tram and in it the underground. It is necessary to buy cards and to pass through a turnstile. I look, at a stop there is a person and cards sells (at least if does not sell the whole fan of cards holds in hands). I approach, I wish to buy two, and it shows, pass, ezzhajte type all APPRX. not clear. Turks all by cards pass basically. Cannot be, that for foreigners journey free. At other stop of a card to us have sold. And so through time. In the underground us too have free of charge started up. But in the underground, I so have understood, pay lifting, for descent do not pay.
19.09.06, Tuesday
Today in our disposal was half-day in Istanbul. To leave we planned somewhere at 14-00. There was an idea, on a way back, will stop on the bank of sea of Marmara and to bathe in him. So it has turned out, that all time in a city has left on shopping though it was initially planned to buy quickly only dublenku, and then to visit palace topkapi. We were tightened by labyrinths of shops, which uncountable set. They began directly from our hotel and further aside Laleli where all is occupied by these shops. Usual things sell only by the gross, at retail do not want. Dublenku – please. As a result dublenku we have bought, and the price normal enough, with nakrutkoj for retail certainly (though the Turk assured, what is it its wholesale price). And we bought it at any office a floor on the fourth where we were got by one sociable companion from street. Here all speak Russian. The Turk from whom we bought, speaks in general without accent. To it every five minutes whence-nibud from the CIS call. While we chose, there has arrived one madam from Volgograd. Turks are very sociable and hospitable, especially if it to earn give. We bought Jeans-vests already in shop on Yeniceriler caddesi. Here any more by the gross, but also the prices, almost as in Minsk. All these campaigns have occupied naturally a lot of time, especially shop searches where it is possible though something at retail to buy. Souvenirs we zatarilis on the Big market, and on an input in it, that leaves to mosque Bejazit. Long to go here at on there was no neither time, nor a desire. nachitavshis histories, how people come on the Big market on purpose simply to look, and leave, after many hours with a heap of any rubbish and without money (assert, that many sellers possess there hypnosis and tourists untwist there under the full program), we have run some galleries and have come up from it in any square where too trade in all successively. Have then walked at University. The main gate there have a protection and on territory starts up only on the student's. By the way, unlike Bulgaria, here aloud is warmer. Weather was enough hot though in day of a trip across Bosporus, it was cloudy, by the evening even there has passed a small rain. From a heat well rescued svezhevyzhatyj orange juice which here press continually.
Having taken away the car from a parking, were put forward in a way back. Considering fuel cost, I decide not to refuel in Turkey in general since even gas, will manage more expensively, than gasoline in Bulgaria. By my calculations of kilometres 150 I will drive on gasoline which filled in Minsk. A city have left much faster, than drove. To leave, of course, is easier, signs in a direction to Edirne enough. Have back decided to go on paid road. Through any distance, we pass boxes of payment for road, barriers are lifted. I decide, that money they do not take today. Road ideal. In general in the European Turkey, roads do not go to any comparison with roads Bulgaria, Romania (not speaking I will fish about Ukraine). Even free roads very much high quality. In Romania the basic roads too not bad, especially new avtoban from coast, to Bucharest, but on minor it is possible on such to run (as has occurred to us on a return way). . In Bulgaria roads in general below an average, some sites do not suit anywhere. A quite good site only from Burgas to Varna (from where I had to go).
Through any time, after CHorlu, we decide to move down on free road to get at coast. We move down and there and then boxes of payment for roads, they here at congresses. We pay (how much I do not remember, in my opinion, 7 YTL). But it is not cheap for the site of kilometres passed by us from force in 60. Further we go along coast, but building such, that I understand, that wild coast here simply not to find. All in settlements, and from very cosy modern cottages. Besides before entrances barriers and as there it is accepted, national colours. So it is possible to leave far, keeping away from a route. Therefore I decide to move down on road going in parallel, along settlements and to search free from them for a coast site. But all are not present it. At last I see between settlements a small piece of the earth under an arable land, metres 200-300, and an open barrier in one of settlements adjoining on a field. That you will not make for the sake of idea to bathe in sea of Marmara. We go on settlement, week-day, in the street it is visible nobody, we approach against the stop on a beach. Ashore the cosy terrace where Turks (at this time there were one old men) sit is constructed and drink tea from wine-glasses. Both settlement, and a beach very cosy, only we feel ourselves awfully uncomfortably. Turks notice us, look at us with astonishment, but no more. We go on coast in a field direction, behind a ledge with a bush we undress and zalazim in water. Water turquoise and very warm, much more warmly, than in Black sea in Bulgaria. Pravdo many any seaweed. Having swum for a while and having freshened, we come back to the car under all same surprised sights of Turks.
We leave on road and further it decided to go on free road since we need to pass absolutely small site to Babaesok where all of us equally should turn off with avtobana. And the road here any more so is loaded. We reach to Babaesok, we turn off on Kyrklareli. The road becomes again simply excellent. Meal with a speed of 120-130 km/h. Suddenly over road on an iron frame I notice a traffic light which passes to the red. I have noticed it late enough, behind on a tail at me sat Reno megan and I have decided not to brake since to brake it should very urgently and collision would be not to avoid. As a crossroads there was not! There was an adjunction of any local journey, but a crossroads it will not name in any way and on road to this direction emptiness, only we with it Reno. The Turk too does not stop, goes for me. We pass kilometre, again the same traffic light, but here we already stop. Through two kilometres again a traffic light, and behind it police. And it stops me and a Turk. By the way, by this moment with us have caught up still to steam of cars, but them pass, stop only us. And here has begun. At first he speaks with a Turk, writes out to it the receipt and arivederchi. Then undertakes us. I will long not tell about this very substantial dialogue, but it was something. At first he has started to explain to me in Turkish, then allow to speak too most, but slowly. Then, having consulted to the partner, has started to use a word "red", and all the rest on the. And on a leaf has written for bolshego my understanding «130 YTL». Here to me it became completely not cheerful. After Istanbul of money at us it was essentially reduced and to pay such sum I did not presume. Moods any. But I pretend, that I do not understand, that from me want. The artful Turk has stopped the car and has found in it the person who is speaking English. That to me has told that as so it was clear – you have driven on red light and your penalty makes 130 YTL. And type, to you it is clear? To open sense was not, had no time for jokes. Clearly I say, that here not clear. And the English-speaking Turk has left. I start to explain to the policeman, that I the tourist, I have a rest in Bulgaria (Bulgaristan in a their way), to Istanbul have gone on excursion and money at me is not present so much, all there remained. I offer it 20$. No, speaks, lyres give also full volume. And in general it is necessary to pay for the receipt, through bank (and already grew dark also banks did not work). I broke its minutes 15. And it has accepted me obviously for the Bulgarian (BY instead of BG on numbers and colours of tags have something in common) and as they concern Bulgarians, I do not know. To speak with it it was very heavy, as a result it took 20$ and 20 YTL, has written out the receipt on 18 YTL and has let us go in peace. As a result I have brought down the penalty almost three times, have found out, that in a pocket they too take, and is almost assured, that to Turks it writes out not so such sums as has declared to me (too they kindly smiled, receiving receipts for now I stood, have stopped still cars three). And near this imperceptible traffic light they are grazed naturally specially, on a portable radio set to them pass numbers of those who has slipped on red – to me showed my number which has been written down on a piece of paper, primotannoj an elastic band to a portable radio set.
Here such here the history, but well, here to take offence there is nobody, is guilty itself. The mood has soon returned on due level and we, observing all rules, have driven to border. On border we have got on peresmenku. At customs of cars was not much (the basic and loaded transition in a direction from Sofia). Basically Bulgarians, Romanians, and also Lithuanians! And Moldavians. With the Moldavian of average years we have got to talking, though in Russian he spoke with strong accent. It was with two women and went to Turkey on any commercial questions. Lithuanians there was a whole family on a minivein, but they stood aside and with neighbours to communicate obviously did not wish, well, the owner-barin. Though I periodically in Lithuania happen and Lithuanians I treat very kindly.
At last peresmenka has ended, quickly, without delays, us have let out from Turkey and also have quickly let in Bulgaria (a vignette have checked up, it was operating), have paid only 2 euros for a pool. Here Romanians allow to consult for some reason on me, on what road it is better to go to Burgas. I rather owned a question, but again these language barriers, in general, have explained them somehow that Nikolay explained to me. In Malko Tyrnove have refuelled gas and across Bulgaria went already on darkness. Nikolay was glad to welcome us in Sozopole, in number it has left everything as was though we just in case left with all things, whether it is not enough, something will change.
20.09.06, environment
Next morning, having slept and having had breakfast, we have said goodbye to Nikolay and his wife (the spouse its dentist, its private office is directly in the house, on the ground floor) and have left from Sozopolja. This day we left Bulgaria.
This day we should drive under our plan a pas the north on coast, on road to bathe in any place (we have chosen the Review, having read about this place in the report of Russians-autotravellers) to call in to Varna, and further, through transition Silistra-Kelerashi to drive to Romania and to drive as it is possible further, a minimum dourzicheni.
Road to Varna quite decent, in an average part enough an abrupt streamer with a view of the sea. The review has appeared a cosy place. Having bathed and having said goodbye to the sea, we have not for a long time called in to Varna, have walked on a city, had a bite in cafe and have moved further. On departure on Lukoil have refuelled against the stop gas under the minimum price for that moment 1,03Лв. In Bulgaria on refuellings, in case of refuelling to full, to you wash all glasses, and in Turkey, I read in reports, directly there and then, on okrytyh sinks wash the car completely. Also have called in in a hypermarket, were bought by wine, rakiej and products in road.
Further have headed for Silistra. The road became worse, places, is direct as at us, with hollowed under patches, but not closed up rectangles. The border to us should be crossed on the ferry, the bridge here is not present. The customs is directly in a city, from street, between houses turn off under a customs sign. On almost empty transition we quickly pass the Bulgarian customs and we approach in some pressure on Romanians, expecting, that now will begin. At Bulgarians has taken an interest in the ferry and its schedule of circulation. They wave aside the Romanian – all there. It has appeared, that the ferry Romanian and to pay for it it is necessary only lejami, and with me remained are left, thought them for steam to pay. I come back to Bulgarians, but the exchanger does not work for them. To one of the Bulgarian customs officers I are left and vparil, having exchanged them at a draconian course for euro, the sum the truth, was insignificant.
I pass the Romanian customs, here it is necessary to pass a pool for 2 euros (before pools met only at Bulgarians), to buy a vignette and - I can not believe – everything, any ecology! And in general here the relation was almost even benevolent. After Dzhurdzhu we on it any more did not count. Very thick two, simply immense Romanian customs officers (they were looked very funny), have asked, how much days of transit to me to put, I have asked on a maximum, five. They have taken an interest in my route, and, having learnt, that I go through Sinai and Brashov, my plan have approved, type – «it is veri a buzzing!». And everything, chao.
I leave a box and I see my familiar Moldavian with whom we from Turkey left. Here again we again with it have met. It has appeared, that is direct from Turco-Bulgarian customs it has gone here, to Silistra. And here, at the bolgarsko-Romanian customs it was found out, that it does not have passport. At two passengers is, and at it is not present. All having searched, has asked to call Bulgarians on customs in Malko-Tyrnovo. There the passport also was, it simply has not taken away it. It was necessary to go back, through all Bulgaria. I.e. all that time while we spent the night in Sozopole, bathed in the Review and walked across Varna, it went there-back across Bulgaria.
The ferry mooring is directly behind customs, it is already Romanian territory and the ferry accordingly too Romanian. In reports read about any razvodchikah-sellers of tickets for the ferry under the speculative price. It was already dark, I have driven any box and became in a turn tail behind a waggon. Left, has found the car with Bulgarian numbers and has asked where to take the ticket. It has appeared, that in that box, that I have driven. The ticket has gone and has bought. In my opinion it cost 20 pour. Anybody did not approach to me, offered nothing. In minutes 20 the ferry has come, but we on it have not got. The waggon has taken a lot of place, but now we the third by turns. It was necessary to wait for ferry returning not less hour. In absolute darkness I and have not understood, Danube is how much wide here. We floated minutes 15. From car windows fires on different coast only were visible, and bark of dogs, which big set at a mooring and which I have fed a good part of our food stocks was heard.
From departure from the road ferry, it is possible to tell, it was not simple. And so proceeded long enough. To Kelerashi, and can and further. At first a first coat, then broken asphalt. In full darkness and in a dust from a chain of the cars leaving from the ferry, it was necessary to maneuver carefully between potholes. Became closer to road Slobozii of the normal. By the way Slobozija, besides Sozopolja, became a unique point where roads of our route were crossed.
After Urzicheni, have decided to move further though time was and later, and spending the night to make in Ploeshti. The road from Urzicheni to Ploeshti at number 1D was also not a fountain, but tolerant. As suddenly in the middle of a way, on practically empty road, being kneaded with counter, has seen directly before itself huge hollows. The counter car has not left chances it to go round. As a result I fly two left wheels in hollows, was slyshan accurate metal knock. I stop, I leave. A hole in asphalt depth of centimetres 20. Both left caps were lost. Minutes ten I went on a roadside field with a lantern, but any and have not found. As a result the suspension bracket and rubber like have sustained, but were pognuty wheel disks, especially back, and (it was found out in the next morning) the back wheel because of disk deformation has started to lower. The most insulting, that while we stood, has not driven any car, in one direction. If not counter I would have time to go round holes.
In Ploeshti we have driven in the beginning of the second of night and has been decided to stay the night in the car. Have parked on any area, having found an empty seat, and at once have fallen asleep.
21.09.06, Thursday
I have woken up, when the city already in all has revived. People hurried on job, around "our" area there went trams. Ploeshti it has appeared big enough city. Leaving the car, has noticed, that podspustilo a back left wheel, pressure 1,5. Has tried to pump up, then in road did gaugings. It was required raskatka a disk, but time for it to spend it would not be desirable. As a result of pumping pressure kept at comprehensible level of hours 12. Have gone under indexes on the centre and further under indexes, to Brashov. The road went through continuous settlements, and we long could not stop to have a bite and make toilet. Here it is less than carts and tilt carts, than in a flat part as it seemed to me. Further, in mountains, they meet seldom enough. Foothills at last have gone and we on lifting have found a cosy place where had breakfast.
The road left in mountains more and more, settlements became ever less. The covering was very good, but here road narrow enough. The further in mountains, the there are less than cars. We go long, on time should drive, at least, already Komarnik, but all are not present it. We reach to a place under name Keja. Here there is a developing mountain-skiing centre. But on map Keja it is not designated. And here, on the next line, I find this Keju. It turns out, that instead of road at number 1, we have gone on road 1А which too conducts to Brashov (it it would be possible to avoid, if I have more attentively studied the atlas). And it first loss in time since the road goes through passes here again continuous streamers, and in the second, is necessary now to us in settlement Sechele, to leave on our line and to come back in Sinai. And it is a hook of kilometres at 40-50. After road Kei goes a continuous zigzag to lifting. We pass pass, it becomes absolutely cold. Time because of this my error is lost much, now it is necessary to hurry.
At last we reach to Sechele and on excellent road we rush in Sinai. Sinai is the largest mountain-skiing centre of Romania. Here everywhere hotels and boarding houses for mountain skiers are scattered. Cottages rich the Romanian, constructed here specially for mountain-skiing rest are seen also. In Sinai there is one of the most beautiful locks of Romania – Pelesh which we and planned to visit. Pelesh is in a picturesque place, it is the former residence of the Romanian kings. We have decided not to come into the lock, since drew in time. In the lock a museum of a life of the Romanian kings of 18-19 centuries. Around Pelesha many souvenir benches where we also have got to ourselves of any knickknacks.
Further the way is held in Bran. This most known place of pilgrimage of tourists, so-called lock Drakuly. Through Ryshnov, on road 73А, we leave on a line 73 and here we already stop at the lock which is located on an eminence at mountain bottom. In the lock we could not find any mentions about Drakule, all exhibits are devoted queen Maria. Vlad Tsepesh, very severe governor of Romania ruthlessly finishing with the citizens and with enemies of Romania was a prototype of book count Drakuly. By the way, companion esteemed enough at them. He liked, for example, to accept food and to admire sitting on kolah Turks. But the vampire it was not, all is imagination of Irish writer Brema of the Stoker which, by the way, never in Carpathians was. But Romanians so are grateful to it for Drakulu, what even a monument in Brane have put. The lock original enough, but to Vlad Tsepeshu any has no relations (though somewhere read, that it has been concluded in a cellar of this lock). Other places are connected With his name absolutely. Drakula is actively maintained by Romanians for attraction of tourists a myth.
Following point in our route was Ryshnov. The Ryshnovsky lock is at mountain top. To it there is a road, but in our visiting there was a crude weather and by the car on clay road we call in in enough steep slope could not. Have gone on foot. The lock very beautiful, from it opens very picturesque kind.
Further we have gone to Brashov. The basic sight of a city is the Black temple, it has been constructed in Gothic style. The temple name has gone from its black walls after a fire in 1689. From other sights of a city it is possible to allocate Sacred Nikolay's church, Sacred Varfolomey's church, the Historical museum and the Town hall of 15 centuries. In Brashov we have walked on a city, unfortunately drew in time and not all to us managed to be looked. Over a city, at mountain top inscription Brasov, like inscription Holliwood in Los Angeles is seen.
Further we head on Sfyntu-George. Now we should drive far away on the north. Initially we planned to stay the night in Merkurja-Chuk. But time still allowed also we have gone further, in georgeni. On road we had doubts, whether it will be possible to find motel or hotel in these small towns, but they have disappeared, when, passing Merkurja-Chuk we have seen, one behind one, two big firm centres "Рено" and "Pezho". The road at number 12 has appeared quite decent. In georgeni have arrived approximately at 20-00. For a day we have enough got tired and it would be desirable somewhat quicker in hotel. Has stopped at the policeman, has taken an interest about motel. He has invited to follow it, villages in the car and so has brought up us to motel though it was completely not far from that place. Motel was called Jmola **. Absolutely new and very decent. A double room - 25$.
22.09.06, Friday
Today it was necessary to us on road 12С through pass Bikaz to leave on a line 15, to drive on it along water basin Izvoru-Munteluj, then on road 15В, through Tyrgu-Njamts to leave on line Е85. Further under the plan we leave Romania, in Ukraine we visit fortresses in Hotine and Kamentse-Podolsk, and to reach to SHepetovki where the lodging for the night has been planned.
Practically at once for georgeni picturesque lifting begins. We pass pass and we get to a place under the name to the Varnish-roshu. Here too the centre of mountain-skiing tourism, though and not big, but very cosy. And here, at once for the Varnish-roshu we get on unknown on the beauty a rocky site of road. The road goes zigzags by ledges and rocks, tunnels. The road is cut simply through by places directly in a rock. Here we have lost (though are not present, this word here does not approach) enough time since through each hundred metres I in delight stopped the car and did pictures. For the sake of this place it is necessary to visit Romania. Impressions much more, than from lock Drakuly. It, as they say, unequivocally!
Soon we get to settlement Bikaz. Here it was possible to go on Pjatra-Njamts, or along water basin Izvoru-Munteluj that is a little bit longer. Have decided to go on longer route to look at this mountain water basin. Read about it in reports, it, the truth, there name lake. Actually it was formed as a result of dam building on the river Bistritsa. On this dam you get, driving to a water basin from party Bikaza. Really, very beautifully, hillsides leave in water, the coastal line is cut strongly up, having formed numerous zalivchiki. On road on Tyrgu-Njamts, we visit monastery Njamtsuluj. It is a man's monastery, is closer to Suceava, on the Romanian Bukovina, it is a lot of monasteries, but, unfortunately, on their visiting at us does not remain to time.
Suceava it is passed, not stopping. Mountains have ended, now we move much faster. Line Е85 in an excellent condition. We come on customs. Here to us from ecology to leave it was not possible. We pay 15$ (in lejah) in a box. Fortunately any more boxes, not ecology, not having overcome here was not. We leave Romania. At the Ukrainian customs the frontier guard again starts to search for body number, but unsuccessfully. Everything, like it would be possible to leave, but Ukrainians exchange words among themselves and say, that it is necessary for us to issue temporary import of the car. How so, after all before such was not? It has appeared, that the decision has come into force 10.09.06г., and there we to Ukraine drove 08.09.06г. It was necessary to make out. Money it is special it is not necessary, and here time we have lost much, hour ones and a half. And on a stamp in my passport have entered transit term – 3 days and a check point through which we will leave Ukraine – the Site of ancient settlement. For customs officers this procedure was new, and they did it very slowly. The truth all was compensated to that the girl-tamozhennitsa who made out us, has apologised that has taken away from us so much time.
On an entrance to Hotinu the rain begins. A fortress it is examined under a rain. The grandmother selling tickets, is surprised – «oh, May ljuby, on which to you that fortetsa?» . Has put already along toward evening, from visitors, except us some person with a television camera. The fortress costs directly over Dnestr. The perfect panorama from here opens. I happened in these places earlier when in the late eighties, being the child, had a rest with parents on camp site "podoljanka" under Kamenets-Podolsk. For some griven, the person in a fortress has opened to us a premise where the subjects found at excavation in vicinities fortetsii are stored. Here many Soviet adventure films were shot, I recollect the story of the guide heard in the childhood, such as «the Ballad valorous knight Ajvengo», «Arrows Robin of a buzzing» and others. By the way, under the story of the person, opened to us fortress storehouse, here till now cannot spend high-grade excavation since drawings and the plan of medieval communications are only at Turks. They also were the most persevering conquerors, trying to grasp a fortress, but it has sustained all sieges and has resisted. Turks do not give these drawings and wish to spend excavation.
Further the way is held on Kamenets-Podolsk. We are afraid, that we will not have time to examine a fortress to a sunset. The fortress is already closed for visitors and we need to be content with its appearance. The fortress in Kamenets-Podolsk is in the best condition, than in Hotine. Restoration jobs Here have already ended. The fortress costs also ashore, but already the rivers Smotrich which channel passes by freakish canyons. I recollect, how absolutely still the child, ran along these canyons. We are in time, it is direct before a decline to make fortress pictures.
The rain which has found us in Hotine and has ended in K.-Podolsk, is started over again. To Khmelnitskiy we go under a strong rain, the line loaded, darkly, tyres. Nevertheless we decide to move further, to SHepetovki that on last day not to leave too big run. From Khmelnitskiy to SHepetovki the line is already loaded essentially less, the rain has ended.
In SHepetovke it is found, how to us have told, unique hotel, state, in my opinion, it was called Central. In hotel the junior suite, cost something around 120 grn is free only. We take it. Number has appeared mediocre, a usual junior suite of the Soviet sample (unfortunately, me as to the inhabitant of Belarus such "apartments" are well familiar). And here at me does not suffice 1 grn.!, to pay off for car parking. What to do? I offer the aunt-manager dollars, but she about them and to hear does not want. In general it is necessary to tell it conducted herself very much not affably. I suggest it not to write out the receipt for parking, and money to take to myself. She agrees, but with a condition that it will wake me at 6-40 that I have expelled the car from parking before will come it smenshchitsa. It is insulting certainly, because of this unfortunate grivna to rise so early so it would be desirable to sleep. Already in number, in a bag pocket I find grivna and with pleasure I give to its manager. Everything, suffices now. But at 6-40 at a door of our number have knocked. As well as agreed, I should expel the car from parking. It is called, has learnt on the head or hospitality on-shepetovski.
23.09.06, Saturday
It would seem, this day should not be remembered especially since in comparison with previous, through chur in the sated days, today we should cross simply the Belarus border and come back home. But, probably, from that that we had a time stock, it was possible to go easy, not being afraid to be late somewhere or something not to have time to look, but also from a returning anticipation home, this day has passed extremely easy and all was remembered to me not less, than the others. In SHepetovke we hardly have found the exchange office working on Saturday, then searched for gas refuelling. The driver cargo "Gaza", has sent us on the gas refuelling which is in the country, to go to which it was necessary, because of bridge repair on the roundabout broken first coat. Having arrived, the most surprising was found out, what is it metane refuelling and that, here by methane there go legkovushki, for example, taxi drivers. For me it was opening. And usual gas propanovoj refuellings in SHepetovke are not present (how much it has found out).
Gas refuellings here meet infrequently and we, having specified, that the nearest, on our transit, will be in area Slavuty, have gone further. By the way, during our travel, automobile gas in Ukraine has risen in price. To refuel it was possible a minimum for 3,1 grn against 2,7-2,9 grn. On road there. Have exactly driven on the roundabout. A halt have made in silent Ukrainian district Sarny, had dinner, having bought the chicken a grill in summer cafe. Have bought the Ukrainian wine.
At customs there was an ambush with time import. It as it has appeared, it was necessary to cancel now and as it to do nobody knew. The customs officer called on check point "porubno" through which we drove, something specified, puffed, snuffled and in every possible way he underlined as does for us much! ;) A pier if I now do not make it at following entrance you will have big problems, here and so. Time have again lost hour. And on posledok and has told: «Give something». Has offered it a bottle of the Gomel vodka which took with itself on these cases and imported back:
- The normal?
- You is better.
- And more anything is not present?
- More is not present.
- Well it is fine, ezzhaj.
To Belarus have driven without undue incident. Our customs officers one of the most sad in the world, never smile, is eternal with affected severity. Have asked, as it is necessary, whether we carry the weapon, drugs, etc., and also the literature what, God forbid, forbidden (thus there was in view of far not sensuality everyone there or collected works any Ben Ladena). On it I have asked, and what literature at us is forbidden? The distinct answer has not received. In general, a shame when it will already end …? Interestingly, they that, at all so ask? The European at all will not understand them, that they in general want. But there's nothing to be done, such here, very tightened, a building stage of "market socialism» we now worry.
In Stoline the full tank of gas and further, almost without stops, home is filled. Nevertheless our roads, from visited by us for this travel of the countries, concede only Turkish (though the basic highways in Romania too are quite good). And, approximately at 20-00, have driven to Minsk.
As a result, odometr has shown about 5500 km of run (taking into account departure from Minsk) on 6 countries of Europe (taking into account Belarus and Moldova).
Slavak: slavbel@gmail.com