I want will share the minireport on the travel across the Western Ukraine on the last May holidays. Feature of tour was that with us on travel there was very much a small child (6 months) and running forward wish to tell that especial complexities in this connection has not arisen, and even it was on the contrary cheerful, interesting and simple, the minimum planning of each day only was necessary.
The car – SHkoda Oktavija 1.6.
The crew is minimum – I, the wife and small Katya.
With itself took a full luggage carrier of things from summer to winter, it is specific to the child took the collapsible summer carriage, many different clothes, pampers and other diapers, a teapot + 2 thermoses of hot water on a case of necessity of pit-stop «in an open country» are obligatory where preparation of a dairy mix for the child is required. The child went all time in a children's armchair (approximately here such model: http://www.chicco.com.ua/shop.php? code=69763)
Day the first:
Kiev-Zhitomir-Ljubar-Kremenets-Pochaev-Ternopol
As the first main sight had been chose the Pochaevsky monastery, accordingly and a route such as you see. To Ljubara we pretend, that we go on Khmelnitskiy, in Ljubare it is turned off and we go on Kremenets, and there and to pochaeva a hand a tax. From Ljubara to Krementsa there is tolerable 2х a strip on which there are not enough cars, therefore cruiser speed was an order 130 all time. Under road Krementsom is hardly worse well and speed accordingly less.
The important detail in connection with the small child: unfortunately, in the car it is absolutely not interesting to child to go, and no toys rescue, we therefore went only then when the child slept. It is compensated to that in the car the child sleeps well enough and long, especially if to leave early, hours per 6 mornings when still there is «a night dream». All lunch breaks – the minimum of minutes 40 that the child has had time though hardly hardly to play and is kneaded, and in the car already to sleep.
In the first day have left in 6 mornings and in pochaeve were at 11-15, considering 2 long stops therein.
Itself pochaev I will not describe – references in an Internet weight. It was pleasant to us, all is very beautiful and pure. To be obligatory to women in skirts – if there is no the, on parking give on hire for 1 grivna, a parking free. A heap of tourists and pilgrims which can live in the monastery or in monastic hotel for what that the ridiculous price – nearby 5-10 griven a day.
For a second have called in in Vishnevets to look at a palace of princes Vishnevetsky. The palace is restored and meanwhile special beauty from itself does not represent, so if you not the fan - it is possible to pass safely further.
In Kremenets did not call in, though under descriptions there is on what to look, first of all on lock ruins. Well already there was a middle of day and our small passenger in any did not wish to sleep in the car and we bystrenko have reached to Ternopol and there and have stopped in hotel "Ternopol" - directly in city centre over lake, the address: Zamkovaja 14 (is more detailed here: http://www.hotel.te.ua/ter.php? p=hotel). In the same place there is a paid parking. The watchman on parking actively offered private apartments nearby – but we have disagreed.
Numbers free were in a prosperity and problems with settling have not arisen. Number cost 338 griven – is called 2h-seater the highest category. All is pure enough, but conditions are more similar on Soviet in this connection I consider that for such number it expensively. In Ternopol for itself has noted beautiful church directly opposite to the above-named hotel and an interesting monument what that to the smoking woman sitting directly on a bench in parkway Tarasa SHevchenka. Ate in a pizzeria "CHelentano" - very badly, is much worse than "CHelentano" in Kiev. Still saw interesting cafe on Grushevsky's street too in the centre, but to eat as that it would not be desirable any more. Near to "CHelentano", on mine on street Total there is very worthy coffee house – with a good choice and atmosphere. Have wandered on the central parks, attempted and to sleep.
Day of the second:
Ternopol – Berezhany – Roganin – Stry – Svaljava – Mukachevo
The above described route enough simple and beautiful, crossing across all Carpathians. More close to Mukachevo already goes high-grade avtoban, with good enough covering, it is a pity only twisting. Roads everywhere rather good. EXCEPT ENTRANCE in SVALJAVU!! On Svaljavu we have turned from pure interest – on the Internet left, that there an interesting tourist city. As I have then understood I have turned there a little early, and kilometre 3 was was afraid on full impassability, such roads as there were not then on all our travel. I advise to those who wishes in to curtail in Svaljavu to turn off there under the index which will stand on the right party of road if to go from Lvov, and earlier index on the left side – to ignore, well unless you on the tank.
On road have called in on very picturesque falls, very much near to village Verhne Sinovidne, but schas I can not precisely tell – the map near at hand is not present.
Why that thought that Mukachevsky lock "Паланок" is in the centre of this city and thus has gone there at once, the problem is a little passing the centre, but basically small town small and it not. Actually in the lock were at 12-30. The lock again taki to describe I will not undertake, as all is told and described to me hundred times. Very beautifully and interestingly. Uniqueness of the lock from the point of view of the simple tourist consists in that that it one of very few which were saved in an excellent condition. Many the Hungarian tourists – for them this especial place in the historical plan, here also were rescued the Hungarian crown from Napoleon's approach, here and many various Hungarian historical figures happened. It seemed to me that partially lock reconstruction velas/is conducted on the Hungarian money.
After lock survey have gone to a city lodges in what be hotel. Variants have seen we will directly tell not much, and not long thinking have stopped in hotel "Зірка" more known under the name “Star”. (http://www.star-ar.mk.uz.ua/). Very worthy hotel. Number was on a penthouse (4ый the floor), cost 294 grivnas. In hotel there is a free parking. Thus, what is it all the same it is not cheap, level both the hotel, and number and service 10 times the best, than in was in Ternopol, so – offset! Right after settling have gone on walk. Mukachevo it has appeared very picturesque and silent small town. For the first time uvidal the well-known Zakarpatye Oriental cherries - really it is very beautiful. On coast Latoritsy beautiful, though both old park and quay. We have walked up to the end and, having passed the bridge, have gone to a local female monastery. Personally me, the monastery and its blossoming garden have amazed probably even more than more known lock and even, probably, Pochaevsky monastery. Very pacifying and beautiful place.
In most Mukachevo too is what to look – a town hall and some churches and churches are very interesting. That was surprising – so this that that in a city (at least so it seemed to us), very much not a wide range in respect of decent cafes / of restaurants. posprashivav local - have found quite good cafe on other party Latoritsy, on street Uzhgorod. Very much it is not expensive and it is tasty enough.
In the evening have sat in the centre on shops, have observed a night life – and to sleep.
Day the third
Mukachevo – CHinadievo – Uzhgorod.
From Mukachevo have decided to call in back in CHinadevo to look at well-known sanatorium "Carpathians", it more known as the hunting lock of count Shenborna. The entrance to sanatorium in which territory there is a lock goes from settlement Chinadievo territory, thus the settlement is on other party of the railway (if to go from Mukachevo, sanatorium with the lock will be to the left of a line, and accordingly to the left of a piece of iron). To come it is possible as from railway station with the name with the same name «a dignity. Carpathians» (station to pass difficult, she small but thus architecturally repeats a palace with a red tile), and having driven metres 300 aside Mukachevo between private houses directly to sanatorium collars. At us many "abrupt" cars called in directly on territory, and us why that have not passed even for 10 griven, it was necessary to throw the car directly there and to go uphill on foot, though there not so already and long and highly.
Actually the palace now is one of inhabited cases of sanatorium in which territory many other cases also are located, cafe, and the most beautiful park with lake. All very much uhozheno and is beautiful, crowds of tourists, but not over a measure. In sanatorium on mine treat frustration of nervous system, and the place in accuracy approaches the purpose – very beautiful nature and beautiful architecture of the lock, pure karpatsky air … beauty.
Having taken a walk on territory and not bad having had a bite in local cafe, have gone back towards Uzhgorod. The road on a line was fast, and not looking at that that we have left this day very much late and a little pobluzhdali across Uzhgorod where that nearby 15-00 were already in a city. At once have seen hotel "Continent" near to the bridge on the Theatrical area, but the prices there were from 400 with superfluous griven. We have solved, what is it too and have gone to search further in city centre. On a course of survey of a city the wife has arranged easy shopping in local shops as and the assortment us has pleasantly surprised the prices. Eventually posprashivav at local, have found on area Korjatovicha excellent hotel "Атлант" where have stopped.
Hotel Atlant on area Korjatovicha (http://www.all-hotels.com.ua/hotel.php? hotel=2912 ⟨ = 0). Number cost 250 griven and running forward it was possible to tell what is it the best place where we stopped throughout our travel. Big light 2х room number from an excellent bathroom and very well equipped. Offset 2 times .
In Uzhgorod planned to look the lock and a museum of architecture Zakarpatja, but this day have already got tired and simply attempted in the centre and walked around a city a little.
Day the fourth
Uzhgorod – Mukachevo - a valley of Narcissuses (Hust) – mezhgore – the Sinevirsky glade
Day have begun with lock survey, all zamkovyh museums and an architecture and life Zakarpatja museum which is in 10 metres from an input in the lock. The lock has not impressed strongly in comparison with others ukr. Analogues (Hotin, Kamenets) but as a whole very much it is not bad + very interesting expositions inside in a museum. The architecture and life museum – direct analogue Kiev Pirogovo, only is devoted Zakarpatju. Very beautifully, uhozheno and it is informative. All who thinks, that earlier people lived better – to look necessarily.
On it actually sights which we planned to look in Uzhgorod, have ended, and the decision not to remain for day at 12-00 was accepted, and to go in Hust to look at a valley of narcissuses near to this city.
To Husta have reached rather quickly, rather quickly there was also a glade. But here we were waited by the first oblom – narcissuses did not blossom yet (2ое May on a calendar). . On an input the enterprising grandmother sells self-made photos of how it is beautiful. Passing by eye edge Husta have seen that what to look there plainly there is nothing, and the small town a little sad has seemed to us. In a kind of that the child slept, the decision to go further – on mezhgore was accepted.
SMALL DEVIATION ON THE THEME OF TRUTHFULNESS OF THE INFORMATION ON THE INTERNET
In basic our trip it has been planned on the basis of the information which we have pumped up from different information portals on the Internet. As practice has shown, the information on very many sites mismatches the validity. And if specialised sites on sights and different tourist points are even more less adequate (in my opinion the best site - http://www.castles.com.ua/regard as advertising or as everything, but it really very useful resource). That many sites devoted simply, to put it mildly, are not absolutely adequate to tourism and hotels. Therefore I recommend to ask real people about level and availability of this or that service in various small towns - problems will be less, and disappointments too.
THE DEVIATION END
Have arrived nearby 3х hours in mezhgore, hoping there to see «the most beautiful Karpatsky resort». H'm … it can be bad searched or something have not understood, but the small town has appeared on impression even more sad and sad than Hust. Sensible hotels are not present, the life in general is not present. Not in insult it will be told for local residents, but the description on the Internet seemed to us that and a severe reality of this small town strongly differ. There is nothing, it decided to go on Sinevir though the child from day driving already starts to behave violently. Yes. It is necessary to tell that the road from Husta to Sinevira is is not absolutely expensive, or as spoke Blame-down, it is completely not expensive, and what that a nightmare. Twisting, narrow, all in huge potholes and holes, places passing in a first coat. The car it is very a pity, sharply it would be desirable that that of section "jeep" or "tractor".
Thus kinds certainly shaking – the nature the richest and the most beautiful. Before Sinevirom have stopped on small pass – all tourists there stop as very beautiful kind on mountains opens.
In Sinevir went with firm confidence, what is it after all the large tourist point known to all Ukraine, and here we will find also hotel and where to take a walk. Of it we were assured also by the security guard on entrance to reserve «Sinevirsky glade». Very cultural took griven 5 and has told about a wide range where it will be possible will stop. Has still told that on mine SHkode to a unique museum of timber rafting which there and then nearby is sense to go is not present any – will not pass. One more small frustration.
So – we on a place. What do we see? The boarding house «Sinevirsky lake», not that is under repair, not that collapses, but the essence from it does not vary – it is closed and looks is pitiable. The base of lake «Sea eye» on check has appeared the big wooden house in which though numbers and is but there is no heat, and conveniences on a floor. Third and last variant – private mini boarding house (ukr. The word "pritulok" approaches), with the unreasonable prices (150 for poor number, 300 for a curve separate small house) more. Considering absence of a choice as that, and also the general weariness of a command and approaching night, have chosen a small house for 300. It is Literally on heels for us too there have arrived the Kiev children who too obchialis the Internet and counted on a cultural place, and it was necessary will reconcile to a severe reality and to remain in number of it pritulka. People which it is all built similar the sanitary technicians, opening windows did not learn geometry as that and right angles in the house, no less than working, and it is a lot of that another that it would be possible to expect in number for 300 griven - was not. Invited in a sauna – the same curve where in a font rotten leaves and more what that dust … float
But it is around final devstvenno the beautiful nature, the cleanest air, perfect and unique lake. All it has been examined for the rests of evening, and the decision long here not to be late and in 5утра lifting was accepted and to go on in Solotvino or Rahov (code names on the Internet: «the Ukrainian dead sea» and «Huzul parizh»)
Day the fifth and the sixth
Sinevirsky glade – Hust – Solotvino - Rahov – JAblunitsa – Bukovel
The Sinevirsky glade have left early enough, and I already in mind held that on an extreme case if the last day from it oblomami that by the end of day we repeats we will precisely reach to JAremche, and there we were repeatedly and the problem with settlement will not be. Almost and left …
The first point of our way was Solotyino – the large centre of mud cure on Zakarpate. And bases of rest really it is a lot of boarding houses and minihotels and the choice is. But there is one big but, and it "but" is connected actually with hydrochloric lakes. I do not know about their curative properties, but they all in what that dust and dung (excuse, but indeed). To bathe in it??? Perish the thought. Except as improvement and contemplation of these mud holes to do in a city there is nothing. Grown wise a science of last day, we especially were not surprised and have left «the Ukrainian dead sea», ahead of us waited «Huzul parizh».
To Rahova have reached rather normally. The road picturesque, but a covering bad, and tortuosity strongly complicates passings. A monument to the centre of Europe have somehow passed, we why that thought that it in most Rahove, and that has appeared for 10 kilometres to it, well is fine.
In Rahove from "Paris" there is only a trading complex with the name with the same name. And more the heap of cars and carts which go all through the small bridge in the centre, transforming movement to chaos. We have come into the nearest cafe, had a bite, resembled a little on the centre and have decided, that the purpose is already close and it is necessary to go in JAremche.
It is not enough nedotjanuv to JAremche, have seen the index on Bukovel have decided to call in there and to look that there is. Road from turn – kilometres 10, thus break again taki in many places to such degree, that I even have struck the bottom few times that was not even near to Sinevirom with its potholes. Such impression that is made it specially that visitors Bukovelja ate in local dorogushchih restaurants and especially did not go in JAblunytsju or JAremchu. It is a joke certainly but with expensive to such resort that that certainly is necessary to solve.
Bukovel (http://www.bukovel.info) certainly pleasantly pleases, directly islet of civilised Europe in the centre of Carpathians what that. The big territory, all uhozheno, purely and beautifully. Very pleasant small houses with numbers for residing. An excellent breakfast entering into cost.
The most interesting was that lifts on slopes work till now, and we 2 times rose on mountain. On skis, according to local, have ceased to go for a drive absolutely shortly before our arrival – but enough most part of one of descents was in snow and we there went for a drive simply on the priest.
During a low season cost for the week-days quite normal-310 griven for a night, nearby 1200 for a package (from Friday till Monday or from Monday till Friday). During a high season and price holidays become absolutely mad to 1000 griven for number in day, moreover and to reserve it is necessary for some months – all is a payment for that that in Ukraine I do not know analogues such complex.
Unique objective minus – very expensive restaurants. When there were we one worked only "Kazachek" from a network «Trump Map», and the prices were corresponding – nearby 20 griven for soup or a borsch (in JAremche it is possible for 5гривен to find easily), 37 grn for 100 gramme of a trout (whereas everywhere 10-12 costs). Well it doesn't matter – to JAremche or JAblunitsy 15 minutes by the car and a huge choice of worthy restaurants and kolyb.
In Bukovele we have spent 2 wonderful days and on 3ий have decided to go in JAremche.
Day of the seventh
Bukovel – JAremcha
In JAremche we go already 3ий year and always there we stop in the sanatorium with the same name (http://www.san-yaremche.nezabarom.com.ua/) though any medical procedures there for a long time already do not spend so on the name "Sanatorium" it is a place does not pull. Unfortunately, at the best arrangement and the best territory in all resort, the sanatorium is not in the best cosmetic condition and conditions in numbers mismatch the prices. Thus that in JAremche new modern private boarding houses are under construction or constructed already many, sense to live in sanatorium "Яремче" especial already are not present. The prices-as agree and as will carry. We took lux for 160 griven for all number (though costs 160 for the person), children arrived on couple of days took a junior suite for 125 from everyone = 250 earlier. How much I have understood the prices depend on congestion of boarding house during concrete time. That year there liked to spend corporate parties the different companies and thus redeemed at once a sanatorium floor. This year I do not know, time on time is not necessary.
One more plus of this boarding house is that from there various excursions accompanied with very good guide-Ivan regularly start. They go and there go on all vicinities, thereby doing rest really active, and the prices for excursions – minimum. We have got on standard, but very interesting campaign on «track Dovbusha» and it costed on 3 grivnas from the person. So I recommend not to live in sanatorium, but on 10-00 to come to head case what to descend somewhere in an interesting place.
Day the eighth, the ninth, the tenth, the eleventh
JAremcha – Kolomija – Chernovtsy – Kamenets-Podolsk - Kiev
On a way back we stopped at relatives in Kamentse so from the point of view of travel, I think it not so interestingly, and sights Kolomii, Chernovtsy or Kamentsa all and so perfectly know. From JAremchi to Chernovtsy has reached for 2 hours with copecks (it for the inquiry suddenly who by the plane to Chernovtsy was going to), from Kamentsa to Kiev – 4 hours of pure flight time.
THE RESUME
The first and main. In road we were with the small child, but it practically did not call difficulties. I think it would be more difficult to sit in 3х walls of the house and to try to entertain it old toys than to go to new places and to allow it to learn the world together with us. So I urge all not to worry and if there is a possibility – to get out with children on the nature or in what that travel.
The second. A site all the same automobile – so some the general words about avto and roads. The car has proved to be at height and any problems, even minimum, is not revealed. The general extent of road – 2100 kilometres. Roads everywhere except Zakarpatja (from Husta to Sinevira, and from Husta to JAremche) tolerable or good. In noted areas – it is necessary to be extremely attentive and cautious izza very bad quality of roads.
The third – try to rely not strongly on the Internet, and to recheck the information.