Unfortunately, good (including holiday) has all property quickly to come to an end. It seems, only yesterday we collected things, reserved hotels, and already we assort a heap of maps, guidebooks, photos, videocassettes and souvenirs.
Together with holiday the next travel the cape Kaba de roko on distance of 5300 km from Kiev was which most distant point has ended.
Well, about all one after another.
Preparation or "… we will sit down friends before a long journey …"
Hotels were reserved through the Internet on network Accor. On last year's travel we liked hotels of class Ibis of this network (an optimum parity the price/quality/quantity), and we were guided, first of all, by them.
In Toulon the hotel of network B&B, in Graz (on road there) very cosy, known to us on last year, motel Kern Buam, in Cordoba (in the absence of Ibis) – Averroes has been reserved. In Andorra site Accor has shown nothing, (though on a place we have found both Novotell and Ibis and EuropCar) 4 stars hotel of network Apsis at the price of Ibis therefore has been reserved.
Before a trip it has been replaced by a photo and video equipment with more modern models.
Also it has been bought Green-map and sign UA which and has spent all trip to a folder with documents.
As by the moment of start car run made 5000 km, has been decided to make "zero" THAT basically on purpose to receive "indulgence" on possible rerun. "Indulgence" was expressed in the form of record in the service book: "rerun is co-ordinated".
Standard procedure of sorting of things on two bags – prime and long-term consumption, a stock in two packings of mineral water in half-litre bottles (it is more convenient to drink on the move and to drag with itself) and …. Actually gathering have ended.
Ukraine - "… let will seem to lungs a way …"
In the morning on June, 4th we have headed for the West. A standard route Kiev - district Zhitomir – district it is equal – Lvov – Mukachevo sense to describe is not present. The road from equal to Lvov is patched, but it already so "clumsy", that latki help it a little. Surprisingly, but already there are cut out pieces of asphalt on a new site of road in Carpathians.
In Mukachevo we have reserved a hotel accommodation "Intourist". I counted, that the hotel with such name should be somewhere in the centre, but it not absolutely so. Therefore it was necessary to specify few times road at local residents. Hotel svezheotremontirovannaja and partially reconstructed. The price very moderated – 160 grn for a double room with TV and the conditioner. However, parking in territory of the next autoenterprise. Restaurant quite good. But all leaves impression of any "lifeless". There is no cosiness.
In the morning on terrible potholes we leave from Mukachevo on Beregovo. On frontier transition from our party of anybody. Frontier guards affably put stamps in passports, wish happy journey and before us …
Hungary – "… I do not know other such country …"
On the previous trips from Hungary there were pleasant impressions. Including from pogranichno – customs services. This time all was in another way.
In turn to a check point before us there were three cars. Enough considerable quantity of people in the form of scurrying about near the first of them at once was astonishing. And passengers of this car unloaded in the meantime a luggage carrier on benches for examination. People in shape completely searched salon, a luggage carrier and even for something searched under a cowl. Then full examination of bags.
At first we have decided, that customs officers know something, but similar procedure has repeated and with the following car. And from the following! Our turn has come. Politely us ask to leave the car, to open all doors, a luggage carrier and to take out from it all contents. After researches of interiors of salon and a luggage carrier, prostukivanija doors and a ceiling (zalapali dirty hands – reptiles!) ask to open a cowl. The customs officer has attentively studied contents podkapotnogo spaces, what for has knocked on the accumulator and has passed to survey of things. To us have suggested to open all bags and all pockets on these bags. All has been carefully felt. Sensation vile.
At last to us put marks in passports and allow to go. It would be desirable in a shower and carefully to wash off from itself a dirt.
We switch on a passing light and silently swearing to customs officers we begin movement across Europe. On one of refuellings we buy a vignette for journey on the Hungarian avtobanam-matrixes.
Quickly enough there is a bright Hungarian at which "on a tail" we leave on М3. All way on М3 to Budapest accompanies us a rain from moderated to the strong. On the entrance to Budapest us has overtaken Mercedes with Austrian numbers. We have decided, that he should know short road. Following it quickly have crossed a city and have left on М7.
М7 Goes along Balaton and on one of congresses we have curtailed to lake. At congress with avtobana the police checks vignette presence.
It is windy, cool. Across Balaton waves of dirty colour walk. Three years ago in the Meek creature the lake seemed more beautifully.
avtoban the usual narrow Hungarian road comes to an end and begins. In one place have seen in the sky the plane which was carrying out aerobatic manoeuvres. It seemed small, and we at first have solved, what is it model. But when we have stopped at a roadside near to the same gapers, became clear, that the plane present and operates it the pilot of a high class. Having looked and having removed on video, have moved further.
On the vengro-Austrian border us pull out from a stream of the European citizens, put away and the morning nightmare repeats. Bags to examination, doors, a luggage carrier and a cowl to open. And all passing Europe with surprise looks at morons at whom search things and the car.
Austria – "… I remember a wonderful instant..."
Damning on what light costs Hungarians we have driven to Austria. Also on the nearest refuelling the vignette for journey by the Austrian roads is bought. Soon we get out on А2 and without adventures we reach Graz. This city has very much liked us and last year. Therefore now we, not looking, have dived into the first underground parking in the centre and have gone to walk narrow small streets of an old city. It is healthy to appear there where it was good! And the main thing, also well also remains. Have got on mountain by the well-known o'clock – to a symbol of Graz, have defined places which should be examined on a return way, and have gone to hotel – next day at us the big transition - 1200 km.
Having come to be on a parking, we have realised, that announcements write that people read them. polutorachasovaja the parking to us has managed in 8 Euros. And after all on entrance cost has been written …
To ours to misfortune this day the big church holiday has dropped out. Therefore all shops and restaurants have been closed. Including restaurant in hotel. It is good, that the manager of hotel had a beer, and at us onboard a small stock of provisions in the Morning after a breakfast, under a small rain, we have moved further.
The Austrians tireless builders of roads. They constantly complete them, restore, build tunnels and viaducts. Indexes are simple and clear. But speed local drivers do not observe. At the resolved 130 km/h of the car go from 140 and above. Average rate – 150-160 km/h.
Italy – "… uno, uno, uno momento …"
About that we have driven to Italy we have learnt not only on a traffic sign, but also on point of payment of journey on avtobanu. Quality of a covering has considerably improved, speed has still increased, on road more and more the Italian cars. FIAT has started two new best sellers – Grande Punto and Croma which of a sedan (or liftbeka, I I do not remember precisely) became very beautiful minivan. Often there are Lancia, beautiful cars which at us for some reason are not on sale at all. Well and it is final – Alfa Romeo. Surprisingly, but it is popular enough FIAT Multipla which has passed recently fejslifting.
On an entrance to Venice the stream of lorries moving on the right number is strongly condensed. Sometimes even there are stoppers at congresses.
Very well road service works. Restaurants of a network the Autogrill practically on each refuelling. Quickly, cheaply, it is tasty.
Beyond Genoa we have stopped on refuelling. While the wife went to drink coffee, and I wiped glasses, the woman with the girl of years 12 has approached and has greeted in the Ukrainian language.
- You from Kiev? And we from Lvov. Have seen Ukrainian numbers and were delighted!
Through one car from us stood black Mazda Primacy with Lvov numbers. The husband of the woman with the oldest daughter has approached. Have met. They have appeared too travellers and went to have a rest to France.
Igor if this story gets to you, we will be glad to continue acquaintance!
Having wished, each other good roads we have moved further.
The tunnel replaces a viaduct. Again a tunnel. Again a viaduct. From constant change of the sun and darkness begins rjabit in eyes. For the speed 140-150 it is necessary to watch constantly cars behind. This speed not for constant movement in the left number. Oh these temperamental Italians. But still bolshy temperament at owners of cars with numbers of Monaco. These are not stopped by anything. They simply fly on the shaving.
Grows dark. Ahead France.
France – "… Bordeaux or Provence …"
Entrance to France is remarkable nothing. The traffic sign, indexes became in French and prompt increase in the French cars at road. Novelties – Peugeot-207 and Renault Clio 3 often enough come across. Meet also absolutely unknown (or little-known) at us model: Citroen С1, Peugeot 107 and 1007. But the most mass – Peugeot 307, Renault Megan and Citroen С4.
Spending the night in France has been planned in Toulon, in that hotel in which we waited for car repairing last year. Approached on hotel as to the native house on known congresses and turns. All in the same way! Same number and even the tourist bus from Czechia on a hotel parking. Full de-zha-vju!
Spain – "… karamba, bullfight and oh, damn..."
On entrance to Spain there is a check point. Nearby police cars. But all pass absolutely easy.
First differences are not appreciable, except for the changed language on indexes.
The first stop in Figejrose. We go under indexes on the centre and on one of crossroads the known house on photos decorated with eggs is visible in the heart of a quarter. We start to search for a parking. The parking in territory of the medical centre located in two quarters has appeared the most convenient. And it is absolutely free.
Moving to a museum we notice, that became much hotter. The sight at the parked cars has depressed. They park even more densely than in France. Practically all cars have traces of contacts on bumpers. Badly …
Having visited a museum and an exhibition of jeweller ornaments made under Distance sketches, we solve the great maestro will go in Kadakas, where veins. Under the atlas about 20 km towards the sea. Absolutely nonsense. But during this moment the brother-in-law has called. Having learnt where we and our plans, it has slightly giggled:
- Be going to spend on these of 20 km about an hour.
- You about what?
- And there all of 20 km very good streamer.
And it has appeared. Road the Alushta-pike perch with the straight lines truncated in 1,5 time and it is essential already. Having stretched, minutes 15 behind a truck with advertising on boards "San Miguel" to overtake which there was well no possibility and, damning all Donov Pedro have stopped to make photos already seen in the bottom of a city. In the evening we have learnt, that San Miguel a popular grade of the Spanish beer. Quite quite good!
At last have gone down downwards. A pure white southern city. A cosy bay with beaches and cafe on quay. The people have some. In this place simply it would be desirable to have a rest!
And the Distance small house has appeared in the next bay. Minutes in 10 drivings on narrow and winding streets Kadakasa.
By the evening we drive to Barcelona.
Barcelona – (any song except Olympic I can not think up)
Running forward, I will tell, that here we have made two errors at route planning. Our hotel has appeared directly opposite to the central tribunes of racing ring Montmelo-Granollers where there pass races of the Formula 1 and Grand prix on motorcycle races, but from the Barcelona it in 20 km. The second error consisted that one day has been allocated for Barcelona at us only. People happening there "have prompted" to us, that Barcelona it only Gaudi – to look there is nothing more. Actually it is far not so. Very beautiful versatile city and to us obviously there was no one more day.
In the morning we call a taxi and we go to the centre. The taxi driver goes on the navigator. Then we were surprised, but then saw, that very many taxi drivers and simple drivers actively use these devices.
On one of the central areas – the areas of Catalonia, we have a seat in the tourist bus and we go to open Barcelona. In the bus there is Russian audioguide.
We leave near most well-known "long-term construction" of Barcelona – Sagrady Familia.
Impresses! Having read, that there is a lift, decide to rise upward. With our happiness! The lift this day did not work. But we "have not got used to recede" and on a narrow spiral staircase we rise upward. Uneasy! But, from above passing from one tower in another it is possible to see all city from height of the bird's flight.
We continue excursion by the tourist bus. Following our stop near park Guel. Gaudi's this kingdom and a place of pilgrimage of tourists from all world.
On road to park set of souvenir little shops. In the park is kafeshka where it is possible to be supported with hamburgers and beer. Again we in the bus travel about on capital of Catalonia. The trunk main of Barcelona is called the Diagonal since penetrates a city strictly on a diagonal. If on a street course structures come across, they "are truncated". It is well visible in photos of Barcelona from the helicopter. T.o. The street the Diagonal is absolutely direct prospectus.
Palaces and cathedrals replace Olympic objects. The bus stops near an Olympic water palace. We leave on quay. Not so hot, but sunbathing it is a lot of (bathing less). Along a beach the chain of small restaurants lasts. The prices quite moderated. Having supported in one of them, last time we use the daily ticket on turavtobus to reach on him in a historical part. Here it heart of Barcelona.
Old narrow streets, cathedrals, little shops and summer cafes create holiday atmosphere. Considering, that Spaniards the people temperamental, add here also crowd noise. Very much wished to look in the evening the well-known singing fountains, but the guide in the bus has told, that they work only on Saturdays and Sundays at certain o'clock. And we were on Thursday …
We come back to the area of Catalonia and more time on foot we go to two houses of job of Gaudi. Beautifully, unusually, fine!
Grows dark. Feet hoot, and it would be desirable to have a rest. And in Barcelona after a siesta the life only begins! Numerous cafes and restaurants are filled, the quantity of cars in streets has considerably increased. The life starts to rage! At nine o'clock in the evening … In Barcelona it is felt (in other Spanish cities not so obviously), that the national car – Seat. A taxi, police and simply "civil" cars. "Cult" – Leon and Ibiza. Are popular Audi. The present Catalan macho goes on А3 or Leon black or red colour.
Hardly we catch a taxi (all are occupied – a rush hour) and we go to the "" autodrome.
In the evening we try to get on an autodrome. But all approaches are closed by protections, it is necessary to be content only with pictures of the main tribune from an underside.
In the morning we leave to Valencia, leaving in memory of "birdie", that to Barcelona it will be necessary to arrive once again – to look the well-known fountains, to drive on a cable car which more likely kanatka and more time to wander on this city.
Valencia (too to a head comes nothing)
Some hours of a way and we in Valencia. Near to hotel metro station – to the centre, the area of Spain, four stops. In the underground we try to orient on a map (the Spanish names are still unusual, and in the underground last time went the God knows when).
-Good afternoon! The help is necessary?
We turn around. There is a woman of middle age.
TH has heard Russian speech and has decided to approach
It has appeared, that Lena from Kharkov. Six years lives in Valencia and works as the governess.
She has kindly suggested to show, tourist buses whence go. Without its help we would lose a lot of time. Big to it thanks.
Before bus departure has been decided to try valensijskuju a paella. When we have sat down behind a little table in the street, the waitress has warned at once, that we watched closely the things. By the way similar preventions are hanged out and in the Spanish hotels.
Paella on-valensijski it rice with the chicken, a rabbit and grape snails. To tell the truth, plov on Ah-petri me has liked more. In the end of a dinner we have reserved coffee. Two big portions morozhennogo bring.
- Excuse, we did not reserve morozhennoe. We reserved coffee.
- You will not be a dessert?
- There are no thanks. Only coffee.
The waitress strongly surprised carries away morozhennoe and brings coffee. When we it paid off, has appeared, that the dessert enters into paella cost. Here so we also remained without morozhennogo for the money.
In expectation of the following bus we go to walk on souvenir bazarchiku. It is A lot of products from ceramics. It is one of popular crafts in Spain. Even names of streets and number of houses are usually made of ceramic tiles.
The sightseeing tour not so was pleasant. The bus at all did not reduce speed near sights, and to photograph it was possible only during not numerous stops or when the bus stood on "red".
In Valencia the up-to-date centre of oceanology and the big oceanographic museum is located.
Not so long ago through a city the river proceeded. But because of constant flooding, the city authorities have cleaned the river in a pipe. The old channel is transformed into a parkovo-improving zone with tennis courts, nurseries and athletic fields. But there was a quay, there were bridges. This "overland" river unusually enough looks.
After "investigation by bus" we go on foot. In Valencia one of the oldest railway stations. It is well-known for that on him in a stone the wish "Happy journey" in many languages of the world including in Russian is beaten out.
Near to station there is an arena for bullfight. The arena has been closed, but through the slightly opened shutters of gate it was visible, as toreadors train.
Advertising in the underground offers will go on the ferry to Ibiza. The price for the car and 2 persons - 99 Euros.
In the evening the strong wind begins. Rain drops break by times.
Granada – "Grenadsky volost in Spain is …"
Beautiful avtoban "avtovia de Mediterian" conducts us from Valencia to Granada. It is felt, that we go on the south. Parking on refuelling complexes are equipped by canopies. On both parties of road orange groves. In quality svetoizolirujushchego the screen on a dividing strip avtobana the mimosa BLOSSOMS.
avtovia de Mediterian goes on mountains, but in difference from Austria or Italy, here practically there are no tunnels and viaducts. The road clambers uphill, goes down, does turns. But, nevertheless, it avtoban which allows to go with high speed. At the left the sea, on the right mountains. Almost as at us in Crimea on highway Yalta-Sevastopol.
As Catalonia continues to struggle for the independence, has the language all names on indexes are given in two languages: Spanish and Catalan.
In a head all time turns Victor's song Berkovsky: "Grenada, Grenada, my Grenada".
In the meantime behind a window of the car of mountain become more flat. The vegetation decreases. There are big stony plateaus and canyons. It is involuntarily pulled out: "Directly Sierra-Nevada". The navigator looks in a map and answers:
- And it really Sierra-Nevada. Probably Spaniards have given the same name of district similar by the form in America.
Having lodged in hotel, we call a taxi and we ask to bring in Algambru. On road, the taxi driver (by the way, well speaking English, that for Spain the rarity) is interested, whence we.
- Ukraine. Kiev.
- About! Ukraine! The day after tomorrow we play with you!
- We hope, that game will be interesting.
- It will be heavy game. After all at you Shevchenko!
Receding from the story, I will tell, that Spaniards really were afraid of this game. After all at us Shevchenko!
Algambra. If someone continues to think, what is it the name of the Spanish minivan, it not absolutely so. Though, there is a certain logic that the greatest and convenient car in program Seat have named by name this remarkable monument of dvortsovo-park art. Magnificent, well saved both carefully well-groomed palaces and parks are located on the high hill, whence all Granada is visible as on a palm. But it is not so European, and Mauritian culture. Luxury great in the Middle Ages Granadsky emirata.
Algambru consider as a pearl of Spain.
For Russian-speaking visitors here do not wait. Anyway, the guidebook in Russian is not present.
In the main palace – Alkazar an input strictly on time specified in entrance tickets.
Next morning we go on foot walk in the Arabian quarters on opposite Algambre a hill. Guidebooks do not recommend, with a view of safety, to visit these quarters in the evening.
All so reminds a film "Diamond hand", that for fun I shout: "Gesha! You where?", when the spouse has lagged behind, removing narrow small streets abruptly rising uphill. From hill top magnificent panorama Algambry opens.
Houses are decorated by products from ceramics. Balconies and windows are closed by capes. Us have very much surprised (and then we such saw even in Madrid) panels tense over streets for protection against the southern sun.
When we went down, the Arabian little shops - full analogy of Turkey or to Egypt, both on surroundings, and on the goods have started to open.
Coming back in hotel, we meet miniparade of cars Seat. Oldest of them of release of the end of 60th years. All cars in an ideal condition.
Our way lays to Cordoba.
Cordoba (well there are no about it songs)
Acquaintance to Cordoba has begun with a funny thing. It consisted in the following. On site Accor there are schemes and the entrance description to hotels. In Cordoba we had not a network hotel, and except the address was nothing. Too it is not terrible! We have stopped near the first hotel, have asked a map and to note, where to us to go. Absolutely nearby, considering, that Cordoba a small city. Our hotel has been put on a map. We have fairly driven that place where it should be agree to a map. The hotel is not present. Were developed, have driven to other party. The hotel is not present. Here it is necessary to note one feature of the Spanish cities. If the street name still can be found, house number – the big rarity.
Were again developed – all the same is not present. From third time it has appeared, that our hotel on a street opposite side – an error on a map (mirror).
Directly before sew hotel one of cards of Cordoba – a cathedral on which tower a nest with storks.
In the south, practically in each hotel there is a pool. Let small, but it should be. In our hotel it too was, but plans others and we stamp in a city, the blessing we live in several quarters from an old part of a city.
Something becomes zharkovato. Narrow streets, many ancient buildings. Automobile movement on many small streets is closed distantsionno by operated columns. Drivers of buses, a taxi and special services have possibility from the panel to lower a column and to drive. For all the others the way is closed.
On one of crossroads the street thermometer showed 40 degrees.
One of the most ancient and most beautiful cities of Spain. Once on riches and greatness competed to Bagdad. In Cordoba too is magnificent Alkazar, but it is less and in general after Granada Cordoba is perceived by its reduced continuation. In any way a copy! In one of small restaurants near Alkazara have decided to try one more national dish – hamon. Hamon it vjalennaja a pork foot. For preparation hamona specially plant pigs. There are two ways of feeding of these pigs. Hamon prepared from pigs raised on a usual diet differs a white hoof. More valuable - hamon iberiko. It is prepared from pigs raised on a special diet and has black hooves. Costs more expensively in 1,5-2 times. For giving on a table from a pork foot thin plates of meat along a bone are cut off. It is tasty! Spaniards assert, that Columbus could reach coast of America only thanks to that it had a big stock hamona which does not spoil from long storage.
And in Cordoba there is a Flower street. And at all in Bern as at Semenova.
Having again developed to otnimanija feet, we come back in hotel. To go somewhere to have supper - already there are no forces, therefore go down in hotel restaurant. To tell the truth, we did not expect to see that have seen. Classical restaurant in strict style. The elderly waiter in a snow-white shirt and a black vest. Visitors we, yes a married couple from France behind the next little table. As it served us! We felt ourselves as on royal reception. Even it was inconvenient for the T-short and jeans.
At supper we discuss the plan next day. The matter is that under our plan we should move to Seville. It absolutely nearby – 130 km. But it is literally on the eve of a trip to us in hands the magazine with photos of the city of Ronda has got. They have terribly liked us but to get there, it is necessary to make a hook about 300 km. After weighing it is pro's and con's solved – we go in Rondu.
Ronda
This small city in the south of Spain is interesting to that is surrounded by a canyon depth more than 100 metres. To get to a city (an old part) it is possible on one of two bridges: old and new. To a sight of the traveller amazing landscapes on beauty open.
Still Ronda it is interesting to that in it there is the oldest in Spain arena for bullfight. The arena is opened for tourists. There is a museum of history of bullfight. One of exhibits is devoted the young man – to the hereditary toreador. On coincidence of circumstances, literally the day before, we saw on TV bullfight with its participation.
And again we in a way. The road goes on rather hilly terrain. But the local macho, on same Toledo as at me, easy holds 140 km/h. Long hung at it on "tail", but on one of series of passings it all the same has come off.
It is necessary to tell, that on usual roads Spaniards (as well as Frenchmen) do not go on passing if on horizon the counter car is visible. Therefore, when I jumped out on passing (with good stocks overtaking on some cars for time) me started to beat "distant" from a horizon line.
Seville – "From Seville to Grenada in a silent twilight of nights serenades are distributed, the ring of swords" is distributed
From Seville we waited for much. City of Don ZHuana, Carmen and the Seville barber. Running forward, I will tell, that our expectations were justified.
Having arrived to Seville in second half of day, we learn, that in a city except bus excursions there are also river walks. Therefore, we go to one of the Seville sights – the Gold tower. Near to which, parking excursion teplohodikov and buses.
Here we were waited by a surprise. The young man has run up to us and has started to offer bus excursion. We explain, that we plan the bus for tomorrow, and today we want walk on the river.
- To you has largely carried! If you buy from me the ticket for the bus for tomorrow receive the discount for the steam-ship today.
Expecting a dirty trick, we buy tickets. All frankly! The total discount for each ticket about 10 Euros.
We are loaded on the two-deck steam-ship. Except us still the grandmother with the grandson. But the steam-ship goes strictly under the schedule!
The river Guadalquivir was comprehended nearly by a fate of Valencia, but here the city authorities have arrived more interestingly. They "have redistributed" water streams, having left river "part". Thus, they have got rid of flooding and have received the perfect channel for employment by rowing. Also earn on it considerable money! Annually to Seville there come enormous armies of oarsmen for trainings on Guadalquivir.
However from water new constructions and the bridges made to the World's fair of 1992 are well visible only. Nevertheless, perovoe acquaintance has taken place.
Since morning before it is come on a stop of tourist buses. We worry a little, whether will be problems with our tickets. Any problems! And here we already move on city streets.
The most picturesque area of a city considers Triana. Here workshops and shops on ceramics, the oldest in Seville a tavern are located. Here it is necessary to arrive to look flamenko.
At once for Trianoj the territory which has been taken away under the World's fair begins. Seviltsy very much are proud of that in their city there passed such scale event.
In Seville one of the arenas largest in Spain for bullfight. Near this arena, there is a monument to heroine Prospera Merimee - Carmen. Nearby university. On its roof, on perimetre, statues of known teachers and graduates are established. In this university there was a tobacco factory on which Carmen worked earlier.
Opposite to university the oldest in Spain of a casino. And top – Seville cathedral Santa-Marija de la Sede, which is the third on size in Europe (after Roman and London) and the largest Gothic construction in the world. In a cathedral it is possible to rise on a belltower, but not on the lift or on a ladder, and on a "screw" path. It has been made that imams could call in on burros in a minaret since the cathedral on a place of former mosque Almohadov is constructed.
In this cathedral Christopher Columbus is buried. The coffin with ashes of the great seafarer is held on shoulders by stone heralds.
Near to a cathedral is alkazar. All the same Mauritian influence on culture of the south of Spain is very great. Nearby there is an ancient building of mail, is more correct glavpochtamta. Directly in a wall apertures, over which inscriptions on copper tablets are made: "Madrid", "provinces", "Seville" etc.
The magnificent area of Spain became pleasant end of walk. Big podkovoobraznaja the area, in the centre the big fountain, is surrounded by similarity of a small ditch through which the bridges revetted with a ceramic tile are thrown. On all perimetre of the area, along walls the ceramic tile lays out maps of the Spanish provinces.
Portugal. Kashkajs. Ocean
In the morning under beginning rain we head for Portugal. Once again we face the pleasant fact – the road to our atlas of 2002 is specified as national, and actually along it already there is a newcomer avtoban. First time such gratefulness was on road to Granada, and then has once again met on a way to Madrid.
But, we will return to the story.
The more close to Portugal, the more strongly a rain. On border there are thrown small houses of boundary and customs services and not a soul. The road from avtobana (before border) has turned to usual narrow road with one strip in each direction.
The rain passes in a downpour. Hardly we overtake a passing gasoline tank truck. And here as if have switched off kranik. The rain has stopped suddenly. Cloudy, but now though it is visible, that on the parties. And on the parties of a plantation of a pith tree. Trees look very unusually – shortly cut off crone and thick enough trunk. On trees where a stopper recently cut off it of bright orange colour. The crop from a tree acts in film time in eight years.
Gasoline in Portugal is even cheaper - 1,1 Euros. However, zapravshchik very much was surprised:
- The new car and gasoline? The new car should be a diesel engine!
In the meantime we leave on avtoban or on-portugalski - an autoplatform. It differs nothing from others except for one nuance. On refuellings there are small restaurants of type of the Autogrill, but at 11 o'clock (on local time) the hot meal is not offered – too (in their opinion) early. Taking into account that time in Portugal differs from Central European at 1 o'clock, and from Kiev at 2 o'clock absolutely wrong decision (for us).
We have seen ocean in small resort small town – Kashkajs. Very nice modern resort, but weather had no and, having made photos, we move towards one of overall objectives of our trip. To cape Kaba de rokko.
Kaba de rokko
The road to cape very narrow and constantly winds. A beacon standing on the highest point of cape we have seen from apart. We feel small excitement. To visit here, to reach the wheels - dream to which we went those treasured three years.
Here it the most western point of continental Europe! On parking drivers kiss the cars. That I too, with gratitude to the car, have made. On a speedometer of 5360 km from the house.
Coast high and rocky. Near to breakage there is a sign with instructions of geographical co-ordinates and an inscription confirming, that we taki on the most western point of Europe.
Inexpressible sensations when you stand at breakage edge, the ocean, and ahead, behind ocean, already other continent below rages. Buying souvenirs at talkative torgovki, we tell, that we from Ukraine from Kiev.
- How you here have reached? After all it so is far!
- On the car.
- This too big travel for the car!
We are photographed, we take for memory pair of stones from "end of the earth" and with an easy regret (the realised dream ceases to be dream) we go further.
Lisbon
On road we call in in Sintru. The small ancient city constructed in the spirit of Mauritian culture. In the centre a national palace (the former residence of kings) with conic chimneys - card Sintry. The city is entered in the list a world heritage of UNESCO. Other sight – the lock Foam which towers at top of a mountain ridge over a city.
On parking where we have left the car, were a little Land Rover Defender. They bring tourists on mountain to the lock. Unfortunately, the strong rain again begins, and to become wet it would not be desirable at all.
In a souvenir little shop "the cabbage sheet" is bought the ceramic vase made on technology. The ware "cabbage sheet" is made only in Portugal.
We get out from Sintry and under variable forces a rain we move to Lisbon.
Shout of the navigator is suddenly distributed:
- Look! Look! Here it!
- Who such? Where look?
In front of the bridge on entrance to Lisbon on a high pedestal costs, having stretched hands in the parties, forming a cross - Jesus Christ. An exact copy of a monument of the Rio de Janeiro established in port.
On district Lisbon were surprised to quantity of failures. Before, on all way only once saw a waggon moved down in a ditch. The next failure was from the category funny – at congress with avtobana the car "sat top" on a chipper. But when minutes through 10 me it was necessary to curtail on the congress, I have understood, that has occurred. At me works ABS, TCS and only by means of these systems it is possible to enter the car in turn. The road covering after a rain became very slippery! As at us in Crimea on JUBK. Cautiously we move down in a city. Almost have found the hotel and here we pass turn. A rain, a stopper. But … switched on povorotnik magically helps it will be reconstructed in the necessary number and to turn there where it is necessary. The European culture, however!
Lisbon is located on hills, therefore the main thing for the traveller – convenient and not slippery footwear. Sidewalks in the central part are laid out by a stone and even in dry weather the slippery.
Over a city Sacred George's lock to which the abrupt street-ladder conducts towers.
Unfortunately, the rain, but not so strong again begins. From the former watchtowers of the lock the city lays as on a palm. Being verified with the guidebook, we define the further route.
One of symbols of Lisbon is tramvajchik. Old carriages scurry about till now in a historical part of a city, serving the routes.
The old city begins from area Rossiu. After earthquake of 1755 the city has been reconstructed, therefore streets basically equal and only repeat an abrupt lay of land. Narrow ancient streets were saved only in area Bajshi. Near to area Rossiu there is lift Santa-Dzhusta made under project Ejfelja which connects streets of the "bottom" and "top" city. Streets of an old city we leave on the area at quay. We have a seat in tramvajchik (usual) to reach in area Belem. But here an ill luck: tickets can be bought in the automatic machine established in the car. But this automatic machine accepts only coins, and at us, them as to spite, no. The driver does not do exchange. It is necessary to leave through pair stops – to have a drink beer and to exchange money.
From the second attempt we reach in Belem located in a river Tagus mouth. The area is well-known for that here there is a pearl of Lisbon a monastery ieronimitov, the Belemsky palace (the former residence of kings) and a symbol of Lisbon – the Belemsky Tower. The pleasant surprise expected us on a return way. That in Portugal of a taxi cheap we have read in the guidebook but that it at the price of a tram ….da it was possible to go for a drive on a taxi all the day!
Walking on a city, have paid attention, that all city is decorated by national colours, tags hang on cars, people are dressed in clothes with colours of a national flag.
Having returned to the hotel which employees too have been dressed not in Accorовскую a uniform, and in Portuguese national team T-shorts, we have asked:
- At you today a national holiday?
- No. Portugal plays football!
By the way, in Portugal (unlike Spain) absolutely there are no problems with English language. Waiters, sellers, taxi drivers well know English, and are very affable to foreigners.
Madrid
Portugal also saw off us as well as met. A torrential rain. But on departure from Lisbon we have not given up to ourselves in pleasure and have driven through the well-known bridge of name Vasko yes Scale in length (on the counter) 12 km.
Pith plantations were replaced by orange groves. The autoplatform again became a motorway, and we felt almost at home. On a refuelling complex in front of Madrid we decide to have dinner at restaurant. In the menu from familiar dishes only a paella. We reserve to its waiter. He very long tells something in Spanish. From all I understand only a word "beef" and that submit a paella they cannot. The navigator understands in other transcription, that the waiter specifies, with what there should be a paella – with seafood or meat. As, except "beef" it is clear nothing, it and we reserve. In some minutes to us bring on a chop with a potato fri. The Madrid paella has turned out ridiculous.
Without special problems it is found the hotel in the centre of Madrid. But not all so is simple. Any don Pedro has parked the Audi directly on entrance to a hotel parking. Street narrow, therefore it is possible to stand, only having blocked it itself. All is occupied From sidewalks very densely. I do a circle round a quarter. The situation has not changed. Audi still blocks entrance. After a following circle I land the navigator on searches of it Pedro. Apparently, it should be made out in hotel. And only from the fourth circle I could call in on a parking. Small international scandal has helped.
This parking has appeared most terrible of all. Long narrow descent did in the end 90-degree turn. Backlashes on each side on turn no more than 10 sm at the combined mirrors. And walls on this turn stored traces of numerous contacts.
Time not wasting we go on one of the central areas – plazu the Major which is in several quarters from our hotel.
On road the occupation is met a little separately standing girls, which doubts does not leave. But the most ridiculous, that in street adjoining in this place costs one more, in the same pose, only the iron. The guidebook confirms, what is it advertising of the Madrid university. "A-a-a! Students means" – we have thought.
Unfortunately, plaza the Major now on reconstruction. Therefore its kind far not the best.
In the morning we go on area Del Salt - the Solar area (unfortunately, too on reconstruction) where is old glavpochtamt and zero kilometre of the Spanish roads, a monument to a she-bear near a tree strawberry (a symbol of Madrid), and also parking of tourist buses.
The circle by the bus on the Madrid sights has confirmed our assumptions, that all of them dosjagaemy with feet. For two and a half day we without special pressure have bypassed all sights of Madrid and have visited Prado. Besides a pleasant surprise – on days off an input in Prado free.
For those who will be in Madrid, we recommend very nice restaurant for Calais de the Major (one of the central streets) under the name "Got drunk Duck" (Dranking Duck). A stylish interior in style 50 – 60th years, the English menu with photos of dishes and very affable waiters. Three days we went there with pleasure!
And here hamon in Madrid it has appeared worse, than in Cordoba though and essentially is more expensive.
The city park has very much liked. Beautifully, purely, well-groomed, despite a considerable quantity of people.
In Madrid we conducted the "Spanish" way of life: slept longer, walked, an obligatory siesta for the Spaniard and in the evening again walk on the revived streets. Even the automobile stream aloud is more dense in the evening, than in the morning.
Separate word about a parking. Last year at me hair rose on end when I saw as Frenchmen park in two contacts. In Spain is even more dense. During stay in this country I had an impression that cars in motor shows and mine are not scratched here only. All the others bear traces of contacts on boards and bumpers.
One more feature of the local traffic – motorcyclists. When you stop on a traffic light, suddenly from anywhere there is a whole plenty of variegated motorcyclists squeezing between cars. At evolutions it is necessary to be convinced once again, that one of them does not try to squeeze near to you.
I should mention one Spanish automobile feature. On cars Alfa Romeo (from 147th model and above) give special forward licence plate - the smaller size. Not to spoil beauty of the car and to underline prestige of its owner. Such number can be hung up only on Alfa Romeo and Seat Leon!
In total in Madrid we had 4 spending the night. One of days of this biggest stop is taken away on ancient Spanish capital – Toledo.
Toledo
"The director's plan" provided a photo of a back board of our car against the index "Toledo" but when we have learnt, how much is the ticket for a train, the car have left on parking in hotel. As it has appeared after perfectly. The high-speed train to Toledo goes from the oldest Madrid station Atocha. The station in itself deserves the separate story. Inside the present greenhouse with pools in which there lives set of turtles.
Planting to a train reminds planting in the plane. Farewell with seeing off before point of the control of luggage and tickets. An exit to a train on a separate exit on each platform with one more check of tickets. By the way the passengers arriving and decreasing, are divided: departure from the second floor of station, arrival on the first. Also taxi are divided also: bringing passengers on the one hand the station, taking away – with another.
The high-speed train consisting of 4 cars, covers 70 km for 25 minutes.
That Toledo not ordinary city you understand at once on an exit from station. On a high hill the powerful fortification behind which spikes of cathedrals and majestic unapproachable Alkazar are visible rises.
Ancient capital of Spain. A city of three religions, for what it name the European Jerusalem.
We enter through main gate Puerto del Salt (Solar gate) and we get to a medieval city. So I imagined Spain! Streets very narrow and very abrupt. For convenience, near a fortification the city authorities have established the escalator from six flights.
In this city lived the Ale Greek and Cervantes. From here it come (on Cervantes plan) Quixote and Sancho Pansa. The ale Greek also is buried here, in a monastery of Santo-Domingo.
Walls of houses and balconies are decorated by knightly flags and boards. In Toledo ceramics and stamping crafts prospered. In gift shops set of metal wares: from ornaments to an armour and the weapon. It is a lot of ceramics.
We have crossed a city, and left to the bridge the Dignity Martin. Under the information from the guidebook if to pass the river Tagus on this bridge and to rise on the next hill it is possible to see a panorama of all city. But, having got on the next hill, we have understood, what is it not that. A city it is visible, but not in that foreshortening as in a photo from the guidebook. It is necessary to go on the following hill. In 40-degree heat of forces on it any more was not. Therefore we come back in a city and on winding small streets we move in the opposite direction.
To leave it would not be desirable. But over a city the heavy cloud and while we have appeared in a station building has hung, the downpour has begun. Having returned to Madrid, in the hotel lift we read such announcement familiar to the Ukrainian citizens: "Dear ladies and gentlemen! In connection with carrying out in our hotel of service jobs maintenance with water is disconnected". The rests of mineral water in a luggage carrier has hardly sufficed to wash.
Andorra
In the morning, and not having waited water occurrences, and hardly having got out of a parking-trap, we head for Andorra.
First time about Andorra we have read in student's years in magazine "Youth". I do not remember the sketch and author name (to me it seems, Felix Krivin), but it was told in him about Andorra as about absolutely unusual country in an easy satirical manner. I even thought, what is it thought up country. Later I have found Andorra on a map, and many years there was a desire to get to this country.
Monotonous movement on avtobanu was involved with the index: "something in Spanish, Greenwich meridian". I snatch on the navigator: "Where we look?!! Road we do not watch! Greenwich meridian have overslept!"
At this time there is a following index informing, that before crossing of a meridian of 1000 m, then 500 m, 300 m. We already see the symbolical arch thrown through road. I stop the car precisely under it. Bystrenko that the police as we without waistcoats run on avtobanu has not seen, we do photos.
Soon avtoban turns to usual road and enough steep slope uphill begins. Occasionally there are small tunnels. The district around reminds Carpathians only mountains considerably above.
On entrance to Andorra point of the police control, but we have interested nobody.
Andorra represents duty free between Spain and France. A known mounting skiing resort. The country consists of capital of Andorra-la-Vella and several suburbs scattered in mountains. The basic income – mountain-skiing tourism and duty-free trade. In Andorra-la-Vella three streets: two main things and one industrial (passes in the bottom part of a city where there are any building enterprises). In mountains round a city there is scale a building – hotels are under construction and ski lines are laid.
In capital is not present (or nearly so there are no) traffic lights. Movement traffic controllers in the form of red colour operate.
The main streets are built up by a strange mix of buildings of 18-19 centuries and ultramodern constructions. Here shops and offices of known trade marks are located.
Our hotel in the centre, almost on merge of both main streets. When we have come into a hall, the first thought was: "Instead of have forgotten in reservation acknowledgement edinichku before the price to put? Judging by a hall it is valid 4 stars". Errors are not present. Hurrah! Number too completely corresponded to "stars".
While the spouse assorts things, I leave on street. In the nearest bar I reserve beer. The black waiter with a smile brings the misted over glass. I give a denomination 5 Euros. The waiter takes away money and leaves. I sit I drink beer, I wait delivery. The waiter meanwhile is engaged in the affairs. What it at them, duty-free beer 5 Euros cost? However!
I finish drinking, I call up the waiter and I am interested, how much is beer. He smiling runs to cash desk, clicks on keys and brings the check on 2,75.
- That's good! Where delivery?
The waiter again runs to cash desk and brings other check – on 2,30.
- And with it it agree. Delivery where?
Here he pretends, that has ceased to understand English. On noise there is an owner. I explain, that has drunk a beer glass, has given to the waiter 5 Euros, has received 2 checks for the different sums. I accept any sum, but I wish to receive delivery. The waiter evaporates under a sight of the owner. The owner opens cash desk, counts delivery and silently gives to me. I at all have not looked from what sum. Apologies was not. The amusing country Andorra!
Not skiing, in this country it is possible to admire only landscapes surrounding capital. Having come into pair shops were surprised, that the duty-free prices differ from the Kiev a little.
To have supper have sat down on an open terrace of restaurant of hotel directly on quay of the mountain river with a tremendous kind on surrounding mountains. Three waiters, effectively submitting the reserved dishes served us. Have again reflected on supper cost (menus read). Surprisingly, but the total amount has appeared much less expected.
In the morning, once again having admired kinds from a hotel window, we set out. On departure from Andorra-la-Vella has decided to refuel duty-free gasoline. Here it costs 0,87 Euros. A new Andorra problem. The card which just paid hotel, is not read out. After the fifth attempt I pay in cash. Running forward – with a card all was as it should be and it "was normally read" on all further way.
On departure from Andorra again the police control. And again we are interesting to nobody.
The road turns to a streamer which all is more rigid and more rigid. Far below between mountains the black cloud lays. After one of coils the fork on which the index suggests to continue descent or to use a paid tunnel. We choose a tunnel. Some more coils and we drive to a cloud. A tunnel much more low and as it has appeared, short enough. We go down. Very abrupt turns. Passings are possible on rare sites when the sheaf from several turns is visible. Far below the railway bridge. The navigator starts to complain of seasickness that was for all our campaigns once – on a site of Tuapse-Sochi. It is necessary to stop periodically on rest platforms. At the same time and photos have made.
The general extent of descent more than 130 km for which we have spent more than 3 hours.
France. Monaco. Italy. Transit
Leaving on plain, in the first settlement we meet "ten". One in one as our previous car. And Frenchmen last year told, that there is no service "Frets". To search did not want, idlers! By the way, "Fields" to us met on all way and in all passed countries.
At departure on avtoban going along Azure coast it is caught up Toledo with Polish numbers. On such removal from the house practically fellow countrymen! I have overtaken it and have blinked "avarijkoj". Poles long "hung" at us on "tail". When we moved down on refuelling – have affably waved with hands.
Again already such familiar Cannes, Nice are by carried by. On border of Monaco for some reason there are policemen, but nobody is touched. In Italy we understand, that because of morning descent we go with a delay. The hotel is reserved in Padue. On one of the Italian refuellings on a column hangs three hoses signed, accordingly: a diesel engine, gasoline, gasoline. I ask owner Audi refuelling on other column, before me:
- Whether correctly I have understood, what this gasoline of 95th?
- Yes. Here see three hoses. Here a diesel engine, here gasoline, and here gasoline.
Judging by engine job, gasoline has appeared normal.
Judging by Accorовской to the entrance scheme to Ibis Padova, our hotel absolutely near to avtobanom. Therefore problems with hotel search should not be. Naive!
To Padua have driven, when has already darkened. From the first attempt have obviously gone not there. Making use of experience of Cordoba, have called in in the hotel which has got on road and have asked a map. A map not distances, but have shown on hanging on a wall where we and where it is necessary to us. We go on the new introduction. Here it the index on Ibis. We turn off and … we leave to congress with avtobana. The second attempt. The same result. Nearby hotel Sheraton. We come and ask the help at the girl behind a rack.
"Same it is very simple!" – she exclaims and tells to us a way done already twice. Good. Can that have not watched. You will laugh, but we have again returned to avtobanu. At the navigator the easy hysterics begins. And here me osenjaet crazy thought – the index on hotel is incorrectly turned! Again we come back to the ill-starred index and we pass by it. In a quarter - here it our hotel! No, all the same it will be necessary to buy the navigator!
And again Austria. Graz
Small transition from Padua to Graz has been planned specially. Very much we liked this city, and rest after 1200 kilometre transitions of the last day was not superfluous. At entrance to Austria we stop to buy a vignette. The girl explains, that at them any problems with Visa, therefore they serve only MasterCard. Well. At me and such is.
At small restaurant on refuelling (type the Autogrill), very picturesquely located on the bank of the big lake we understand, that the prices for meal in Austria it is considerable above, than in Spain. The dinner on refuelling cost as much, how much at restaurant in the centre of Madrid.
Our hotel in the centre of Graz and we with pleasure go to walk on streets of this silent, cosy and very beautiful city. Only the begun downpour could tyre out us in hotel. But all the same already there was a late evening.
Hungary. Ukraine
Being afraid of checks on the Hungarian borders we carried a wine minimum. Hardly more than the resolved norm. Last year we have brought twice more bottles.
But, on Austro-Hungarian border the missing girl, not looking at us, it is lazy has put stamps in passports. Everything, we in Hungary and even without examination.
Without special problems we cross Hungary. Again we are interesting to nobody. Not leaving a box, frontier guards put stamps, customs officers are not present, and we move to the Ukrainian party.
On our transition, in a window of a customs premise the TV is exposed. Ukraine plays with Tunis. We obviously distract people from football, therefore to us as to importunate flies quickly splash stamps and show the door literally.
Before Mukachevo the downpour has begun. It pursued all of us Carpathians to the Lvov, abating, again amplifying. In Lvov friends reserved to our room in Voltere and wait for our first impressions.
Krucheniki, vodka, the good company. Well in the homeland! We "tormented" our friends the stories to the half-second night. Last jerk and we at home. 9800 km for 21 day on roads of 8 countries.
Our new car has proved to be from the best party and has proved a choice.
In general it is necessary to tell, what even in comparison with last year, Europe all changes on kompaktveny more actively.
Are very popular Renault Scenic the first and second generations, Citroen Xscara Picasso, Opel Zafira (old and new). It is a lot of Peugeot 307 SW and Brake which balance on the verge kompaktvena and the versatile person, and also Ford Focus C-Max and Toyota Corolla Verso. Quite often meet Korean KIA Carnival and Daewoo Tacuma. Is in demand new FIAT Croma. To me was pleasantly frequent to meet Seat Altea, VW Golf Plus and Turan, and especially, growing sale Toledo.
On avtobanah set of cars pull trailers and are frequent kolony from caravans. Europe actively avtoputeshestvuet.
Travel friends it it is healthy! And the navigator it will be necessary to buy to following holiday.
Yours faithfully
Boris